Parasitic Draw on RV?

BFL13 wrote:
The controller should go where the converter is if possible, up near the batteries. Controller to battery and converter to battery in parallel to the same battery posts. Or you can run the controller wires over to the converter's output terminals, which then share the wires going to the battery.

You don't need to see the controller display from inside unless you are "easily entertained", and you can get some of that solar info from your Trimetric display inside anyway.

If you get a battery monitor like Trimetric with the 500a shunt, now all your negs go to that instead of to the battery including the solar's and converter's, and the previous frame to battery neg wire.

This can affect the length of the various neg wires and how you do your neg buss bar if any. So make the decision to go with a Trimetric (or Victron) before you get too far along.

A Trimetric is certainly on the list, but I don't know when. If you read my other thread, you'll notice I used a ground junction block. One of the reasons I did so is that I should be able to easily replace the junction block with the TM shunt when I do get one. Put the battery negative cables on one side of the shunt and everything else on the junction block on the other and should be good. No battery lugs to mess with, all the work is already done.

BTW, does the TM come with the shunt, or is that a "sold separately" item? Reason I ask, unless there is a kit that already includes it, I could install it now. Wouldn't the 100A shunt be sufficient for me?

Anyways, my solar charge controller is located almost exactly between my converter and battery bank. The solar batt negative wire goes down to the frame ground 3 feet away. The positive goes to the circuit breaker feeding the batteries. I would think there would be VERY, VERY little resistance with the way I have it wired.

Now, I am still having an issue with my PV kit. It is a Renogy 100W with their Adventurer 30A PWM controller. I am adding a second panel tonight to bring it up to 200W. I had the converter shut off all day yesterday to remove that from the equation.

When I got home, the BT app was showing that the panel was generating 140W. Okay, whatever. The amps x volts did calc out to 140W. I figured maybe it was a comm error via the bluetooth, but the controller LCD screen is spitting out the same volts and amps coming from the panel. The nameplate on the panel confirms it is a 100W panel at STC's.

I thought no big deal until after the sun went down and it was saying the panel was still putting out 110W. The voltage was depressed but the amperage was multiplying out correctly.

Any ideas? I called Renogy and they were little/no help.

Something I wired wrong?