Parasitic Draw on RV?
I am getting ready to add a small solar system to the top of my 5er to keep the batteries topped off when we leave the camper at the lake for extended periods. My wife and I generally pull the camper ...
Forum Discussion
BFL13 wrote:
You want the 500a shunt not the 100a so when you get the 2000w inverter that is coming next :) you can pull over a 100a and have no issues.
Some places sell the Tri with everything, and some sell the items separately. If you use the 500a shunt as your buss/junction, be aware the bolts in the shunt are quite short and can only hold a few ring lugs stacked at a time, so you might still want the buss/junction to have more places to put ring lugs.
The solar controller that goes with the Tri has a shunt too ISTR and it gets convoluted for sharing shunts and all that. Was a thread about this recently. You are probably ok with the controller you have.
#8 to the roof should be fine, but you will be able to tell once you are out in the sun and check the controller's display for "expected amps"
Why on earth does the SC-2030 need a shunt? If connected to the TM-2030, why can't that information be shared? Seems stupid to have two shunts.
