Parasitic Power Loss!

Hmmmm, got me wondering about my trailer.

AFAIK the battery disconnect on my Timber Ridge just disconnects the WFCO converter's 12V distribution panel (and fuses) from the batteries.

But the 12V awning, tongue, stab. jack and slide motors are connected to the batteries through either a separate inline fuse (tongue jack) or separate self-resetting breakers mounted in the floor up front of the trailer. They don't go through the WFCO distribution panel. And I wouldn't normally expect any parasitic losses there.

But there's also the wiring for switches and the remote control of these motors (and the outdoor lights). That's all separate from the WFCO panel too as I can use the remote with the batteries disconnected from the WFCO. So there's probably some parasitic draw maintaining the remote control electronics.


Think the propane detector is tied into the furnace or frig 12V line from the WFCO, so will be disconnected when the main batteries are disconnected from the WFCO. But the CO and smoke detectors have their own batteries.


This thing is ridiculously complicated.

Much to my surprise I learned that the factory installed cut-off switch did not completely eliminate all draws from battery. Not a biggie for us as we store our rig in our side yard, but you would think if something is called a battery cut-off switch that it would do just that.

You could move all items with a measured draw to the other side of the existing switch, remove a cable, install your own switch.

Breakaway braking system is supposed to be direct on the battery and does not draw power unless activated. This way it cannot be disabled or forgotten inadvertently.

As stated above: You just need to completely disconnect the battery terminal to insure you have a charged battery. You can disconnect and have a charged battery even 6 months after last use. No need for a trickle charger at all. (I know, I know, only if the batteries are good)

Combining "Motorhome Manufacturer" with "Electrical Design Intelligence"...

Is much like combining...

"Bovine" with "Stradivarius"

If you disconnect the neg cable and put your multimeter to 10 amps you can measure this parasitic draw. When I was having this problem with my chassis battery I noticed a .4 amp draw for various items mention by previous posters. I installed a battery disconnect. Using this battery disconnect In 4 months over this winter without power the batteries self discharged to 80% soc.

The factory installed a partial disconnect? Now that is just genius. Install a real switch at the battery, or properly wire the one that is installed.

I put a disconnect switch on my negative battery cable for a TOTAL disconnect during service, or for any time I need the battery bank to be totally disconnected.

Thank for the prompt answers. You confirm what I suspected. Guess I need to disconnect at the terminal next time.

If you have Hydraulic Leveling these are connected before the cut-off switch and will draw about 0.10 amps in idle. Other items as listed above such as the Propane detector, etc that are safety items that require power at all times.

Walter