Pinging

Well said Scott.

Chum lee wrote:
ScottG wrote:

"Also, Knock, ping are all exactly the same thing. You are alone in your suggestion that they are anything else."

Not really. (I'm with Gdetrailer here) Clearly pre-ignition and detonation can have similar symptoms/effects, but, their origins are different.

Forget Wikipedia, I suggest you obtain/read a copy of "Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals 2E" by John Heywood, 2019 edition. The above is a college level required textbook for most accredited Mechanical Engineering Programs/students. Reviewing some Schlieren photography of active internal combustion chambers would also be helpful.

To the OP, you can check your catalytic converter by tapping it lightly (when cold) with a soft mallet. If it sounds like marbles rattling in a tin can, . . . . you need a new one.

Chum lee

I understand your post but respectfully disagree. In both cases the root cause is heat in the wrong place and both causes and results are characterized in the trade school text books we used as knocking, pinging, etc. and much of this was from manufacturers. They weren't the product of any one persons opinion.
In the OP's case that could be caused by anything from an EGR valve to a sensor to mechanical damage.
What ever the case, none of this is helping the OP at all.

ScottG wrote:

Chum lee wrote:
ScottG wrote:

"Also, Knock, ping are all exactly the same thing. You are alone in your suggestion that they are anything else."

Not really. (I'm with Gdetrailer here) Clearly pre-ignition and detonation can have similar symptoms/effects, but, their origins are different.

Forget Wikipedia, I suggest you obtain/read a copy of "Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals 2E" by John Heywood, 2019 edition. The above is a college level required textbook for most accredited Mechanical Engineering Programs/students. Reviewing some Schlieren photography of active internal combustion chambers would also be helpful.

To the OP, you can check your catalytic converter by tapping it lightly (when cold) with a soft mallet. If it sounds like marbles rattling in a tin can, . . . . you need a new one.

Chum lee

I understand your post but respectfully disagree. In both cases the root cause is heat in the wrong place and both causes and results are characterized in the trade school text books we used as knocking, pinging, etc. and much of this was from manufacturers. They weren't the product of any one persons opinion.
In the OP's case that could be caused by anything from an EGR valve to a sensor to mechanical damage.
What ever the case, none of this is helping the OP at all.

Thank you for your response. I'm not talking about "trade schools" or, information from "the manufacturer." I'm talking about information from the highest level "engineering schools" which I graduated from. (with highest honors) There is a difference in the curriculum.

I agree that the problem here is heat related. What's causing it, and, how to fix it is the issue.

Please, . . . read the book I referenced.

Chum lee

Chum lee wrote:

ScottG wrote:

Chum lee wrote:
ScottG wrote:

"Also, Knock, ping are all exactly the same thing. You are alone in your suggestion that they are anything else."

Not really. (I'm with Gdetrailer here) Clearly pre-ignition and detonation can have similar symptoms/effects, but, their origins are different.

Forget Wikipedia, I suggest you obtain/read a copy of "Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals 2E" by John Heywood, 2019 edition. The above is a college level required textbook for most accredited Mechanical Engineering Programs/students. Reviewing some Schlieren photography of active internal combustion chambers would also be helpful.

To the OP, you can check your catalytic converter by tapping it lightly (when cold) with a soft mallet. If it sounds like marbles rattling in a tin can, . . . . you need a new one.

Chum lee

I understand your post but respectfully disagree. In both cases the root cause is heat in the wrong place and both causes and results are characterized in the trade school text books we used as knocking, pinging, etc. and much of this was from manufacturers. They weren't the product of any one persons opinion.
In the OP's case that could be caused by anything from an EGR valve to a sensor to mechanical damage.
What ever the case, none of this is helping the OP at all.

Thank you for your response. I'm not talking about "trade schools" or, information from "the manufacturer." I'm talking about information from the highest level "engineering schools" which I graduated from. (with highest honors) There is a difference in the curriculum.

I agree that the problem here is heat related. What's causing it, and, how to fix it is the issue.

Please, . . . read the book I referenced.

Chum lee

Sorry but your book doesn't trump my schooling, associated text books and lifetime of experience. You think I don't understand your point - I do but is disagree with assigning what are generic terms to be specific references.
And we're still revolving around someones ego rather than helping the OP.

ScottG wrote:

Chum lee wrote:

ScottG wrote:

Chum lee wrote:
ScottG wrote:

"Also, Knock, ping are all exactly the same thing. You are alone in your suggestion that they are anything else."

Not really. (I'm with Gdetrailer here) Clearly pre-ignition and detonation can have similar symptoms/effects, but, their origins are different.

Forget Wikipedia, I suggest you obtain/read a copy of "Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals 2E" by John Heywood, 2019 edition. The above is a college level required textbook for most accredited Mechanical Engineering Programs/students. Reviewing some Schlieren photography of active internal combustion chambers would also be helpful.

To the OP, you can check your catalytic converter by tapping it lightly (when cold) with a soft mallet. If it sounds like marbles rattling in a tin can, . . . . you need a new one.

Chum lee

I understand your post but respectfully disagree. In both cases the root cause is heat in the wrong place and both causes and results are characterized in the trade school text books we used as knocking, pinging, etc. and much of this was from manufacturers. They weren't the product of any one persons opinion.
In the OP's case that could be caused by anything from an EGR valve to a sensor to mechanical damage.
What ever the case, none of this is helping the OP at all.

Thank you for your response. I'm not talking about "trade schools" or, information from "the manufacturer." I'm talking about information from the highest level "engineering schools" which I graduated from. (with highest honors) There is a difference in the curriculum.

I agree that the problem here is heat related. What's causing it, and, how to fix it is the issue.

Please, . . . read the book I referenced.

Chum lee

Sorry but your book doesn't trump my schooling, associated text books and lifetime of experience. You think I don't understand your point - I do but is disagree with assigning what are generic terms to be specific references.
And we're still revolving around someones ego rather than helping the OP.

Oh for God's sake, IT'S NOT MY BOOK, IT'S A READILY ACCEPTED/ACCREDITED TEXTBOOK FOR MECHANICAL ENGINEERING STUDENTS. (CLEARLY, THAT'S NOT YOU) Your schooling is what it is. Mine is what it is.

Go waste someone else's time.

Chum lee

Chum lee wrote:

ScottG wrote:

Chum lee wrote:

ScottG wrote:

Chum lee wrote:
ScottG wrote:

"Also, Knock, ping are all exactly the same thing. You are alone in your suggestion that they are anything else."

Not really. (I'm with Gdetrailer here) Clearly pre-ignition and detonation can have similar symptoms/effects, but, their origins are different.

Forget Wikipedia, I suggest you obtain/read a copy of "Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals 2E" by John Heywood, 2019 edition. The above is a college level required textbook for most accredited Mechanical Engineering Programs/students. Reviewing some Schlieren photography of active internal combustion chambers would also be helpful.

To the OP, you can check your catalytic converter by tapping it lightly (when cold) with a soft mallet. If it sounds like marbles rattling in a tin can, . . . . you need a new one.

Chum lee

I understand your post but respectfully disagree. In both cases the root cause is heat in the wrong place and both causes and results are characterized in the trade school text books we used as knocking, pinging, etc. and much of this was from manufacturers. They weren't the product of any one persons opinion.
In the OP's case that could be caused by anything from an EGR valve to a sensor to mechanical damage.
What ever the case, none of this is helping the OP at all.

Thank you for your response. I'm not talking about "trade schools" or, information from "the manufacturer." I'm talking about information from the highest level "engineering schools" which I graduated from. (with highest honors) There is a difference in the curriculum.

I agree that the problem here is heat related. What's causing it, and, how to fix it is the issue.

Please, . . . read the book I referenced.

Chum lee

Sorry but your book doesn't trump my schooling, associated text books and lifetime of experience. You think I don't understand your point - I do but is disagree with assigning what are generic terms to be specific references.
And we're still revolving around someones ego rather than helping the OP.

Oh for God's sake, IT'S NOT MY BOOK, IT'S A READILY ACCEPTED/ACCREDITED TEXTBOOK FOR MECHANICAL ENGINEERING STUDENTS. (CLEARLY, THAT'S NOT YOU) Your schooling is what it is. Mine is what it is.

Go waste someone else's time.

Chum lee

THERE'S the Chum Lee I expected LOL. :B

I would check the timing first and see if the base line timing is correct. If correct I would then check the knock sensor.

If it were mine, I would pay the freight to get a FORD computer hoked up to it. Why not start there first?