As the title says I am planning ahead to replace the fridge in the RV with a residential one. (By planning ahead I mean I want to have it all prepped so when my fridge shoots craps at an inopportune time I can just swap it out). Anyway I currently have a Dometic RM2862 and am looking at replacing it when I do with this jewel so something similar Whirpool Fridge. I currently do not have a inverter and only have 1 12V battery. My plan is to install 2 6V batteries and an inverter to run the fridge only when we are traveling. My wife and I are probably going to start full timing next year and even though most say it will stay cold I would feel more comfortable knowing it was still running. With that being said, the fridge is in a slideout. I would like a switch to switch back and forth between 'shore power' and batteries or an automatic transfer switch. How is the best easiest way to wire this up?? Also having a little trouble determining just how big of an inverter I would need. Again I don't plan on boondocking at all just enought to power the fridge.Thanks,Steve

there is a better one that fits at home depot for 250.00 and comes in black.I trimed a half inch off one side slide in perfect

Most refrigerators require a pure sine wave inverter to work properly with the high torque motor. Most RV's with residential refrigerators use 4 golf cart batteries, some have 4 of the 8D battery at 120 pounds each, or the energy storage of 8 golf cart batteries. I would also recommend a pair of 120 watt solar panels as a minimum, but probably a 400 watt system if you do any dry camping. SunElec.comInverter size should be around 1,000 watts, and then it should not overheat. I have heard that Samsung refrigerators are more likely to be happy with a inverter. Some refrigerators have the condensor welded to the inside of the metal jacket around the refrigerator, so when running the heat is disapated by warming the outside steel shell of the refrigerator. this is not very efficient, and should be avoided. One with a steel coil and fan under the refrigerator is more efficient, and less likely to warm the sides, and heat the interior of the refrigerator. Also being built into a cabinet, and refrigerator with a shell style condenser, it will heat up the sidewalls of the refrigerator, normally in a home this is OK they are all exposed to air in the room, but not when mounted in a RV cabinet. Fred.

You should be fine with two batteries as long as you plug in at the destination.I recommend 1000 watt Go Power inverter and a Xantrex Prowatt 15a transfer switch.Good luck.Of course you know once you have all this ready the propane fridge will last another 15 years ;)

Our current fridge is same model as yours. I prepped my MH for a residential fridge. Put a Xantrex 2000 watt pure sign-wave inverter with 4 12 volt deep cycle batteries. Also installed a Xantrex transfer switch. Have a generator auto start to keep batteries charged. The fridge you have selected was high on list for the install. But there is a wall next to right hand hinge that would not let door open all the way. The Haier from HD was next on the list.Unfortunately our fridge failed during our winter trip. Stopped in Shipsewana, IN. and got a new cooling unit installed. If fridge fails again it will get a residential fridge.

Insulation Insulation InsulationMy install would have failed without having had clad the residential with more insulation. Too much thermal loss.

Planning for future residential fridge replacement

ronfisherman
Moderator
Aug 11, 2014
Our current fridge is same model as yours. I prepped my MH for a residential fridge. Put a Xantrex 2000 watt pure sign-wave inverter with 4 12 volt deep cycle batteries. Also installed a Xantrex transfer switch. Have a generator auto start to keep batteries charged. The fridge you have selected was high on list for the install. But there is a wall next to right hand hinge that would not let door open all the way. The Haier from HD was next on the list.
Unfortunately our fridge failed during our winter trip. Stopped in Shipsewana, IN. and got a new cooling unit installed. If fridge fails again it will get a residential fridge.
time2roll
Nomad
Aug 11, 2014
You should be fine with two batteries as long as you plug in at the destination.
I recommend 1000 watt Go Power inverter and a Xantrex Prowatt 15a transfer switch.
Good luck.

Of course you know once you have all this ready the propane fridge will last another 15 years ;)
Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Aug 11, 2014
Most refrigerators require a pure sine wave inverter to work properly with the high torque motor. Most RV's with residential refrigerators use 4 golf cart batteries, some have 4 of the 8D battery at 120 pounds each, or the energy storage of 8 golf cart batteries.

I would also recommend a pair of 120 watt solar panels as a minimum, but probably a 400 watt system if you do any dry camping. SunElec.com

Inverter size should be around 1,000 watts, and then it should not overheat.

I have heard that Samsung refrigerators are more likely to be happy with a inverter.

Some refrigerators have the condensor welded to the inside of the metal jacket around the refrigerator, so when running the heat is disapated by warming the outside steel shell of the refrigerator. this is not very efficient, and should be avoided. One with a steel coil and fan under the refrigerator is more efficient, and less likely to warm the sides, and heat the interior of the refrigerator. Also being built into a cabinet, and refrigerator with a shell style condenser, it will heat up the sidewalls of the refrigerator, normally in a home this is OK they are all exposed to air in the room, but not when mounted in a RV cabinet.

Fred.
newman_fulltime
Explorer II
Aug 11, 2014
there is a better one that fits at home depot for 250.00 and comes in black.I trimed a half inch off one side slide in perfect

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