Playing With DC to DC Boosters
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-600W-12-60V-To-12-80V-Booster-Step-Up-Power-Supply-Module-/251667269211?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a9889c65b This little guy boosts voltage up to a limit of 12 am...
Forum Discussion
The DC to DC voltage converter BOOSTER is used for tasks. Much like a pressure washer is connected to a garden hose to blast away stuff at much higher pressure.
The original constant voltage of the WFCO is fine for my battery, but I do want to use some high power 36 volt 30 watt (this is real not BS huckster ratings) LED chips, equalize flooded batteries and perform other tasks without molesting the WFCO or the battery. All of the tasks can be performed with battery power alone but except for occasional short term use of the lights it would not be a wise discharge of battery power.
As am equalizer the battery to be de-sulfated is isolated out of circuit by lifting a ground cable, the BOOSTER output is wired wih alligator clamps to the battery terminals. Booster current has been pre-set through it's cermet pot to a 5 amp limit for a 12 volt RV battery, and voltage limit has been set at 16.0 through another cermet pot. This is the one, the solitary only correct way to equalize a flooded lead acid battery. When the equalization is underway the WFCO is providing adequate power to feed the rest of the batteries plus the BOOSTER. When equalizing a battery, CURRENT, meaning amperes, must be controlled. Not only controlled but tightly controlled. An equalization of a 100 ampere battery for instance starts out at 5.0 amps and ends at 5.0 amps, no more, no less. Whichever occurs first, all cells get restored to original specific gravity OR 16.0 volts is reached, the equalization process stops. It is not automatic, it has to be monitored with a hydrometer or voltmeter.
When all that is going on, the innocent other batteries and the RV hasn't a clue anything is different - voltage remains at regular converter values. No stressing the refrigerator board or overheating the lighting circuits. The BOOSTER is the size of a pack of playing cards stacked four high.
My AGM battery manufacturer outlines a specific process to condition their battery. I can set voltage and amperage value of the BOOSTER to exactly match the manufacturer's recommended conditioning recommendations which are temperature sensitive and voltage must be kept close to their recommendation.
Set to it's maximum 80 volts the booster can send 700%+ as much power over a conductor to a distant load. On the other end, a BUCKER can be adjusted to provide exactly and precisely the voltage needed by the load - this means voltage drop no longer exists or is a concern. The only concern is the capability of the booster and the bucker to handle the load. For light loads like 120 watts which renders an insanely intense amount of LED lighting for security purposes a booster and a bucker are a dream come true. Yes, a person can do the same task with 120vac, a switch type regulator on the far end. Price any 36 volt power supplies lately? And how about when the public power goes down? The booster and bucker will gladly operate off of battery power and 120 watts is fine as long as total burn time is limited.
And the WFCO remains untouched.
The original constant voltage of the WFCO is fine for my battery, but I do want to use some high power 36 volt 30 watt (this is real not BS huckster ratings) LED chips, equalize flooded batteries and perform other tasks without molesting the WFCO or the battery. All of the tasks can be performed with battery power alone but except for occasional short term use of the lights it would not be a wise discharge of battery power.
As am equalizer the battery to be de-sulfated is isolated out of circuit by lifting a ground cable, the BOOSTER output is wired wih alligator clamps to the battery terminals. Booster current has been pre-set through it's cermet pot to a 5 amp limit for a 12 volt RV battery, and voltage limit has been set at 16.0 through another cermet pot. This is the one, the solitary only correct way to equalize a flooded lead acid battery. When the equalization is underway the WFCO is providing adequate power to feed the rest of the batteries plus the BOOSTER. When equalizing a battery, CURRENT, meaning amperes, must be controlled. Not only controlled but tightly controlled. An equalization of a 100 ampere battery for instance starts out at 5.0 amps and ends at 5.0 amps, no more, no less. Whichever occurs first, all cells get restored to original specific gravity OR 16.0 volts is reached, the equalization process stops. It is not automatic, it has to be monitored with a hydrometer or voltmeter.
When all that is going on, the innocent other batteries and the RV hasn't a clue anything is different - voltage remains at regular converter values. No stressing the refrigerator board or overheating the lighting circuits. The BOOSTER is the size of a pack of playing cards stacked four high.
My AGM battery manufacturer outlines a specific process to condition their battery. I can set voltage and amperage value of the BOOSTER to exactly match the manufacturer's recommended conditioning recommendations which are temperature sensitive and voltage must be kept close to their recommendation.
Set to it's maximum 80 volts the booster can send 700%+ as much power over a conductor to a distant load. On the other end, a BUCKER can be adjusted to provide exactly and precisely the voltage needed by the load - this means voltage drop no longer exists or is a concern. The only concern is the capability of the booster and the bucker to handle the load. For light loads like 120 watts which renders an insanely intense amount of LED lighting for security purposes a booster and a bucker are a dream come true. Yes, a person can do the same task with 120vac, a switch type regulator on the far end. Price any 36 volt power supplies lately? And how about when the public power goes down? The booster and bucker will gladly operate off of battery power and 120 watts is fine as long as total burn time is limited.
And the WFCO remains untouched.
