Please help me with solar setup

Mike,

Our usage is very similar to yours (just the two of us) we have two 12v WC batteries and we recently purchased this briefcase solar from Renogy Solar

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281556876312?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The main reason for the portable was that we can point it directly at the sun verses having the panels laying flat on the roof of the RV which is not very effective.

This being our 1st. plunge into the Solar world we looked into Go Power, Zamp and Renogy and based on quality/cost we decided on Renogy, but there are trade offs. If we wish to upgrade at a later time we will have that capability.

One item to keep in mind is to be sure the panels are Monocrystalline, the panels we purchased were manufactured in Germany.

Good luck with whatever decisions you make.

I don't know anything about that tracer controller but to me it looks like a rebranded Asian controller I've seen on E Bay. For similar money you could get a Morningstar PWM controller and know that you'll have some reliability. PWM will limit you to 12V nominal modules but if you have space, that may be a good solution. There is no really hard and fast rule about 12v or 24V modules being better or worse, it is more about space, budget, and use. Mono or poly modules in the quantity used on an RV is fairly irrelevant, a lot of us have found that the poly panels harvest a good amount of power, especially in low-light environs.

Good luck with your solar, it is a treat to use for RV's.

Hi,

My E-Meter says that a modern RV will consume 35 amp hours daily to run just the CO meter, propane detector and refrigerator or about what 1 of my 120 watt solar panels will produce.

I would recommend a pair of panels in the 100 - 150 watt range. Larger than 150 watts, and they become massive, and difficult to locate on the roof within the space between the vents and sidewall, and still be able to move around the roof for maintenance.

I made solar mounts with 6" long 2" angle aluminum from Home Depot, and UV rated grey romex #10, run down the back of the refrigerator vent. I ran 2 of the 120 watt panels on each #10 wire.

While I have a $350+ (1999 prices where pretty high back then) Solarboost 50 amp controller, I would recommend a simple 12 volt PWM because they are in the $20 - $35 range today.

Prices for solar panels at this place are in the $1 - $2 per rated watt. You want a panel that has a frame, and 12 volt nominal voltage (21 volts open circuit).

SunElec.com

Good luck,

Fred.

PS: For more details, you can click on my name and 'view posts' then search my posts for 'solar' and you will get several results, and find more details in one of them.

Watch the shipping cost for the large 24v panels. I would get the two 150w for more power and skip the remote meter for now.

1000 watt inverter is an awkward size. 300 watts handles the small stuff and 2000w is generally needed to run the big stuff. Really need 4+ batteries to drive 2000 watts.

If going with a Tracer, I recommend the user adjustable (BN) model;

Tracer BN Series

I put this kit http://www.windynation.com/Polycrystalline-Solar-Kits/WindyNation-200-Watt-12-24V-Polycrystalline-Solar-Panel-Complete-Kit-with-LCD-Solar-Controller/-/631?p=YzE9NDY= from Windy Nation on my RV, with longer panel wiring and some battery lugs I paid $365.00 for the whole deal shipped to my door. From what I have seen so far its working as expected, once or twice my battery's were down far enough that they needed 60 or so amps. Most of the time the system is collecting around 25 amps a day as its just maintaining the battery's. To get any real need in my trailer I have to be running the heater most of the night.

I like the controller as it shows the info I need without running extra wire and a monitor. With my set up I put the controller in my front bedroom so its easy to monitor from inside the RV. At first I was checking the numbers on the controller and my voltmeter every ten minutes but since the novelty has worn off and I know the system is doing what it does best I don't really look at the number much any more. Just something to think about if you are not a tinkerer or a hard core solar junky.

For a small system I would go with a PWM controller that has a temperature probe on the battery bank.

I agree. Buy a second 12v panel and go PWM instead of MPPT, you wil just get more power for the money.

That wont work with the larger 24v panel, that requires a MPPT controller to use on a 12v battery. For a single 24v panel the Eco-worthy 20 MPPT controller is a proven unit and for $102 shipped.

Eco-worthy 20a MPPT

My suggestion if you are going with Solar Blvd, is to buy a pair of their square or close to square 140W 12v panels. Then go on Ebay or Amazon and buy a good 20 amp or 30 amp pwm Charge controller for around $30 to $35. Solar 30s are nice, there's also a nice $32 20 amp version on Amazon that I bought recently and really like, as it's adjustable voltage and able to do equalize charging at a full 16.0V

Put some door hinges on your two panels, and a latch or two to hold them together. Mount your charge controller away from the fumes of your battery while charging, but as close as possible to the batteries without getting corrosive gassed out. Use some 8 or 10 gauge wire between charge controller and batteries. Try to keep the run down to 3 or 4 feet max.

Wire gauge between panels and charge controller is not too critical, maybe use some Home Depot Malibu lightw 12v low voltage wire for your run from your portable panels to your charge controller.

Anderson plugs are nice for quick connect / disconnect features.

Always hook your charge controller up to the batteries first before hooking up to your solar panels.

Throw towels over your solar panels before plugging them in to the charge controller, to cut the amps before starting charging. They are live or hot as soon as it's daylight and skylight is shining on them, rain or shine.

And here I thought I had it figured out. Lol
thank you for all your suggestions.

I like the PWM controler that comes in a kit that Muddy suggested.

Niner, are you suggesting poly panels over mono?