I have been reading a lot about solar on here and finally decided to take the plunge or come to the dark side as some would say. Sunny side makes more sense, but whatever. :)We do not use a lot of juice while camping. I currently have 2 6V GC batteries from Sam's Club. I believe about 225ah. All lights in the trailer have been changed to LED. During a long weekend (F to M) we typically use about 30 to 40% of the battery according to my voltmeter. And thats without really trying to conserve.Once a year we go away for a full week so first and foremost I want to keep the batteries topped off so we dont have to worry about running out of juice. Sometimes I think being able to run things on 120V would be convenient so the 1000W or so inverter may not be out of the question.I dont want to spend a ton of money (obviously) and have found these components to be within my budget:Tracer 2210RN MPPT ControlerMT-5 LCD Display150W 12V Solar Cynergy Panelor 240W 24V Solar Cynergy PanelFrom the reviews and info on this fine forum these seem to be OK quality and I believe that they would do the trick for me.I realize that controler may be a bit overkill for 12V panels but for that kind of money I figure to get something better than a regular PWM. Obviously it would be needed with the 24V panel. And here is my question (finally):Which would be better? 2x12V or 1x24v? Size would not be a problem.Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

Mike,Our usage is very similar to yours (just the two of us) we have two 12v WC batteries and we recently purchased this briefcase solar from Renogy Solarhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/281556876312?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITThe main reason for the portable was that we can point it directly at the sun verses having the panels laying flat on the roof of the RV which is not very effective.This being our 1st. plunge into the Solar world we looked into Go Power, Zamp and Renogy and based on quality/cost we decided on Renogy, but there are trade offs. If we wish to upgrade at a later time we will have that capability.One item to keep in mind is to be sure the panels are Monocrystalline, the panels we purchased were manufactured in Germany. Good luck with whatever decisions you make.

I don't know anything about that tracer controller but to me it looks like a rebranded Asian controller I've seen on E Bay. For similar money you could get a Morningstar PWM controller and know that you'll have some reliability. PWM will limit you to 12V nominal modules but if you have space, that may be a good solution. There is no really hard and fast rule about 12v or 24V modules being better or worse, it is more about space, budget, and use. Mono or poly modules in the quantity used on an RV is fairly irrelevant, a lot of us have found that the poly panels harvest a good amount of power, especially in low-light environs. Good luck with your solar, it is a treat to use for RV's.

Hi,My E-Meter says that a modern RV will consume 35 amp hours daily to run just the CO meter, propane detector and refrigerator or about what 1 of my 120 watt solar panels will produce. I would recommend a pair of panels in the 100 - 150 watt range. Larger than 150 watts, and they become massive, and difficult to locate on the roof within the space between the vents and sidewall, and still be able to move around the roof for maintenance.I made solar mounts with 6" long 2" angle aluminum from Home Depot, and UV rated grey romex #10, run down the back of the refrigerator vent. I ran 2 of the 120 watt panels on each #10 wire. While I have a $350+ (1999 prices where pretty high back then) Solarboost 50 amp controller, I would recommend a simple 12 volt PWM because they are in the $20 - $35 range today.Prices for solar panels at this place are in the $1 - $2 per rated watt. You want a panel that has a frame, and 12 volt nominal voltage (21 volts open circuit). SunElec.com Good luck,Fred.PS: For more details, you can click on my name and 'view posts' then search my posts for 'solar' and you will get several results, and find more details in one of them.

Watch the shipping cost for the large 24v panels. I would get the two 150w for more power and skip the remote meter for now.1000 watt inverter is an awkward size. 300 watts handles the small stuff and 2000w is generally needed to run the big stuff. Really need 4+ batteries to drive 2000 watts.

If going with a Tracer, I recommend the user adjustable (BN) model;Tracer BN Series

Please help me with solar setup | Good Sam Community

pianotuna
Nomad III
Apr 04, 2015
For a small system I would go with a PWM controller that has a temperature probe on the battery bank.
Muddydogs
Explorer
Apr 04, 2015
I put this kit http://www.windynation.com/Polycrystalline-Solar-Kits/WindyNation-200-Watt-12-24V-Polycrystalline-Solar-Panel-Complete-Kit-with-LCD-Solar-Controller/-/631?p=YzE9NDY= from Windy Nation on my RV, with longer panel wiring and some battery lugs I paid $365.00 for the whole deal shipped to my door. From what I have seen so far its working as expected, once or twice my battery's were down far enough that they needed 60 or so amps. Most of the time the system is collecting around 25 amps a day as its just maintaining the battery's. To get any real need in my trailer I have to be running the heater most of the night.

I like the controller as it shows the info I need without running extra wire and a monitor. With my set up I put the controller in my front bedroom so its easy to monitor from inside the RV. At first I was checking the numbers on the controller and my voltmeter every ten minutes but since the novelty has worn off and I know the system is doing what it does best I don't really look at the number much any more. Just something to think about if you are not a tinkerer or a hard core solar junky.
jrnymn7
Explorer
Apr 04, 2015
If going with a Tracer, I recommend the user adjustable (BN) model;

Tracer BN Series
time2roll
Nomad
Apr 04, 2015
Watch the shipping cost for the large 24v panels. I would get the two 150w for more power and skip the remote meter for now.

1000 watt inverter is an awkward size. 300 watts handles the small stuff and 2000w is generally needed to run the big stuff. Really need 4+ batteries to drive 2000 watts.
Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Apr 04, 2015
Hi,

My E-Meter says that a modern RV will consume 35 amp hours daily to run just the CO meter, propane detector and refrigerator or about what 1 of my 120 watt solar panels will produce.

I would recommend a pair of panels in the 100 - 150 watt range. Larger than 150 watts, and they become massive, and difficult to locate on the roof within the space between the vents and sidewall, and still be able to move around the roof for maintenance.

I made solar mounts with 6" long 2" angle aluminum from Home Depot, and UV rated grey romex #10, run down the back of the refrigerator vent. I ran 2 of the 120 watt panels on each #10 wire.

While I have a $350+ (1999 prices where pretty high back then) Solarboost 50 amp controller, I would recommend a simple 12 volt PWM because they are in the $20 - $35 range today.

Prices for solar panels at this place are in the $1 - $2 per rated watt. You want a panel that has a frame, and 12 volt nominal voltage (21 volts open circuit).

SunElec.com

Good luck,

Fred.

PS: For more details, you can click on my name and 'view posts' then search my posts for 'solar' and you will get several results, and find more details in one of them.
westend
Explorer
Apr 04, 2015
I don't know anything about that tracer controller but to me it looks like a rebranded Asian controller I've seen on E Bay. For similar money you could get a Morningstar PWM controller and know that you'll have some reliability. PWM will limit you to 12V nominal modules but if you have space, that may be a good solution. There is no really hard and fast rule about 12v or 24V modules being better or worse, it is more about space, budget, and use. Mono or poly modules in the quantity used on an RV is fairly irrelevant, a lot of us have found that the poly panels harvest a good amount of power, especially in low-light environs.

Good luck with your solar, it is a treat to use for RV's.
4aSong
Explorer
Apr 04, 2015
Mike,

Our usage is very similar to yours (just the two of us) we have two 12v WC batteries and we recently purchased this briefcase solar from Renogy Solar

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281556876312?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The main reason for the portable was that we can point it directly at the sun verses having the panels laying flat on the roof of the RV which is not very effective.

This being our 1st. plunge into the Solar world we looked into Go Power, Zamp and Renogy and based on quality/cost we decided on Renogy, but there are trade offs. If we wish to upgrade at a later time we will have that capability.

One item to keep in mind is to be sure the panels are Monocrystalline, the panels we purchased were manufactured in Germany.

Good luck with whatever decisions you make.

Forum Discussion

Please help me with solar setup

About Technical Issues

Related Content

Need advice on this setup please!

What's the best battery setup for 200w solar?

Solar design help please

2016 F450 Setup

New battery setup