Please Remind Me--AGMs to Full by Ammeter Action?

Pound-A-Peg grade verification of float voltage and temperature compensation validity can be had by simply re-initiating absorbsion voltage value. The near zero amperage reading should resume within seconds. If it does not, tweak float voltage upward a tad.

Inverse testing works too, but be cautious about dialing down float voltage too far. A few hundredths at a time is optimum. Note temperature has a significant effect on pound a peg tweaking hard numbers.

Seems to be working out. I do leave the charger at 14.8 until the batts are full (as noted by amps being down to near zip), then switch to Float at 13.7 per these batts' specs.

That is better than the automatic chargers that hold Vabs until batts are maybe 97% and drop to Float to let the batts come up the rest of the way--if they ever do! I can get them to 99.9% and then drop to Float.

There is no load on these batteries at all while on Float except to run the Trimetric's 12v power. They have been at 13.7 for a couple hours now and amps are holding at 000 amps on the Trimetric with the charging light mostly on, goes off sometimes and comes back on.

You can't measure anything without changing it (as learned in science class) and here is an example where the Trimetic takes power from the battery so it can't quite get to total resting. I don't have a switch for the Tri, but could if it really mattered in the big picture.

Charge to absorbsion voltage until amperage slumps to < 1% total ampere hour capacity. The key word is absorbsion.

No, these are the ones I got a year ago for the 1981 truck camper. The battery box is inside (bad design--not a sealed, vented box) and the fumes from Wet cells would set off the LP alarm I installed.

I have not yet decided if I want/need those other AGMs.

EDIT--this morning I found the Tri saying 13.5v and 000 amps with the charging light flickering. (When you adjust the voltage with the batteries still connected you don't see on the charger's voltmeter exactly what you dialled in until later when the batteries adjust to the new voltage, so I didn't quite get 13.7 as intended). So I dialled it up to 13.7 and amps went to 1.4 on the pair to get them up to 13.7, then started to taper. I will see where that all settles later. I'll get their Float right eventually, allowing also for temperature. Love having an adjustable voltage charger working with the ammeter! :)

Anyway, having the ammeter on the job means I can now look after the AGMs properly. (Thanks to folks here with AGMs describing what to look for on that.)

Are these the used ex-telecom AGMs you were looking at awhile ago?
Or?

Thanks Mex!!! Ok so back to 13.7 Float and hope amps stay the same and don't rise. I guess if they do, that means the Float voltage is too high and I should lower it?

Thanks goodness I now have an ammeter on the job with my AGMs. (They were in the truck camper for a year with no Trimetric, but are now in the MH with a Trimetric so I can actually tell what is going on with them---I hope!)

The rise you see is normal and to be avoided as a nuisance. Overcharge. Stop when the ammeter bottoms out. When it starts rising again all it's doing is causing needless chemical reaction and heat.