When we purchased our used 2017 Coachman Leprechaun Class C I failed to notice that we have to plug in the power cord into a receptacle every time after starting the generator. I didn't think of this or notice the sticker stating this at the time of purchase. My old Jayco class C had the auto transfer switch so I thought they all did..Anyway, Does anyone know of a 'plug in' relay or transfer switch that I could leave pluged in between the 30amp shore cable and the receptacle for generator power, to eliminate the need to go outside to use the generator?Any info greatly appreciated( Last year on on 9K mile trip in the Leprechaun , we didn't need the generator at anytime over 2 months.}

You only need to go out and plug it in to the camp ground pole. When you unplug, plug into the generator. When you want to use the generator it will already be plugged in.

I'm sure you can find an electrician to install it. But, is it worth the $$$? I just leave my cord plugged into the generator receptacle any time I am not hooked to shore power. When I unhook and stow the cable, I just plug it in. If I don't need generator power, the cable is just stowed. But, if I need generator power, I just hit the dash button.

You could 'ADD' a standard auto transfer switch.That receptacle is the generator power out.....You plug our RV Power Cord into it for gen powerThe auto transfer switch...Remove that gen outlet and replace with a junction boxThen wire from junction box to 'GEN-IN' on transfer switch (OR short power cord from Gen Outlet to transfer switch)Then OEM Power cord to 'Shore-In' on transfer switch (end that is wired to rv main power panel)Then 'Main AC Power OUT' from transfer switch to rv main ac power panelOR...just plug ac power cord into Gen Outlet whenever you are unplugged from Shore Power

It's simplicity itself.You just need a small Square D box with wiring knockouts, a 120 Volt coil DPST continuous duty relay, a few wire clamps and wire nuts.You wire the Hot and Neutral of the incoming 30 amp cable to the Normally Closed contacts. The Normally Open contacts are wired to the Hot and Neutral of the generator. The Common contacts go to the RV. The relay power leads are wired to the Hot and Neutral of the generator, just like the NO contacts.So what happens is if you plug into shore power, power goes through the NC contacts and your RV is hot. Now, if you want to run the Generator, just start it up, and when power is available, it automatically closes the Relay, and you have power.Takes just a couple hours to install it all and configure and wire it up. Let me know if you need a schematic.

Jim@HiTek wrote:It's simplicity itself.You just need a small Square D box with wiring knockouts, a 120 Volt coil DPST continuous duty relay, a few wire clamps and wire nuts.You wire the Hot and Neutral of the incoming 30 amp cable to the Normally Closed contacts. The Normally Open contacts are wired to the Hot and Neutral of the generator. The Common contacts go to the RV. The relay power leads are wired to the Hot and Neutral of the generator, just like the NO contacts.So what happens is if you plug into shore power, power goes through the NC contacts and your RV is hot. Now, if you want to run the Generator, just start it up, and when power is available, it automatically closes the Relay, and you have power.Takes just a couple hours to install it all and configure and wire it up. Let me know if you need a schematic.Better make that a "DPDT" relay with contacts rated for a 30 amp or higher load. And make absolutely sure it's a "break before make" relay! Commercial automatic transfer switches often have arc suppression and/or a delay timer that allows the generator to get up to speed with a stable voltage before connecting a load to it.

"Plug In" generator transfer switch/relay? | Good Sam Community

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jan 09, 2018
Storm coming...

I switch to batteries before the storm hits. When it's nice and dry. And I suffer more storms than most on this forum. I am wise enough to CHECK generator oil and coolant BEFORE starting it up after a storm.

Because of GLOW PLUGS, turbo charger, etc. I have a 5-minute run up before I switch on the governor. 550 advanced to 1,200 RPM

It is common to receive one inch per hour during tropical storms.

My BiPAP is on a dedicated Group 29 Lifeline AGM separate from the hotel batteries
5outta6
Explorer
Jan 30, 2018
j-d wrote:
I'd be afraid to use a pair of SPDT relays in place of a single DPDT. I can't draw a diagram to back the thought up, but it seems that if one relay "picked" and the other did not (say a coil failure), we could end up with problems.

As you deliberate this project, bear in mind there are entry level 30-Amp ATS units starting around $50.

If the genset is a recent model like ONAN 4KY, it won't supply AC to the ATS (or the coil in a home made one) until its logic board verifies it's good to go. So an ATS with its own power evaluation would be redundant.

So does this mean you can just leave the house power cord plugged into the generator receptacle and the generator will not provide the power until its 'good to go', eliminating the need for a ATS?
real4u2c
Explorer
Feb 24, 2018
I just finished installing a parallax 30amp ( BEST Converter.com) ATS in my motorhome, and let me tell you whomever thought it was good idea to engineer and design where the installation of the PDP and ATS under the bath sink was smoking *ra!k. I have an old wfco PDP(which i refurbished) and the ATS was chattering something fierce. Oh and the climate control "brain" is under there too, water /electric. Hopefully your power is no where near water.
Dusty_R
Explorer
Feb 24, 2018
DancinCampers wrote:
If leaving the cord plugged in to generator, just turn main breaker off before starting gen, then after gen comes up to speed turn main breaker on.

X-2 on above. PLUS like said, that needs to be a DPDT switch or relay.

Dusty

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