Plugging in to the Generator?

i recommend the Champion 2000 inverter
buy (2) and the parallel kit

you will need both to run the a/c on a regular dependable basis

only one to charge batteries..etc..

barko1 wrote:
I figure I'd buy one that I can parallel so I can add a second if needed or desired. I don't want the weight of a 3000. Looking at a Westinghouse 2200/2500.

You'll need a 2nd one, especially if the Westinghouse is overrated for wattage, which is common for cheaper products. If it will run (more importantly, START) your air it will be working very hard.

barko1 wrote:
Thanks for all the input. I have a 13,500 AC unit. It seems that some people can run the AC from a 2000, some can't. I figure I'd buy one that I can parallel so I can add a second if needed or desired. I don't want the weight of a 3000. Looking at a Westinghouse 2200/2500.

IMO, quite often what determines if you can use a 2000 watt generator (like a Honda 2000i) to power your AC has more to do with the elevation and the temperature than pure chance. Adding other parasitic combined loads also frequently busts the limit too. I'm not familiar with the Westinghouse genny you mention but, if I read your post correctly, you can't just run any two generators in parallel. They have to be designed to run in sync.

If you search the tech forum you can find how to modify your AC to help it start more reliably under challenging conditions. For reliability, nothing beats raw power (with adequate reserve) though. If you want that, expect to pay for it.

Chum lee

time2roll wrote:
Probably split phase 240v so only half power available at each 120v outlet.

I recommend a generator with a 30 amp 120v outlet for best power results.

That's it! The "open frame" or "job site" generators often (probably usually) have two 120-volt circuits at opposite electrical phases. They can deliver their full rated power only at 240-volts. Well pumps are often 240. So if you had a field of these, you could power them up to the rating of the generator.

This is the commonplace issue: Say your RV A/C needs 3000 watts. A 3500 watt RV generator can run it, because they are built to deliver their full rating on ONE phase. But a 4000 watt job site genny cannot, since it can handle up to two 2000 watt loads.

I think it was HF that offered two very similar generators awhile ago and one of them had the 3-prong RV socket. The other had the "twist lock" and those signify that two-phase output.

Thanks for all the input. I have a 13,500 AC unit. It seems that some people can run the AC from a 2000, some can't. I figure I'd buy one that I can parallel so I can add a second if needed or desired. I don't want the weight of a 3000. Looking at a Westinghouse 2200/2500.

2oldman wrote:

maillemaker wrote:
We went down to Harbor Freight and picked up a 4000W generator on sale for $287. It only had 13A / 110VAC outlets. These would not run our air conditioner - the circuit breaker kept tripping on the genset.

Cheap generators have very little surge capability.

Probably split phase 240v so only half power available at each 120v outlet.

I recommend a generator with a 30 amp 120v outlet for best power results.

maillemaker wrote:
We went down to Harbor Freight and picked up a 4000W generator on sale for $287. It only had 13A / 110VAC outlets. These would not run our air conditioner - the circuit breaker kept tripping on the genset.

Cheap generators have very little surge capability.

Yup, be wary. We were at a Solar Eclipse camp a month ago and our generator would not start. We have a 4000W Onan in our RV. We went down to Harbor Freight and picked up a 4000W generator on sale for $287. It only had 13A / 110VAC outlets. These would not run our air conditioner - the circuit breaker kept tripping on the genset. Fortunately we could return the generator.

And was pointed out above, even with a 110V adapter you have to be careful as with cheaper adapters they can overheat and melt from the high current pulled through them.

Word of precaution, those 30 to 15 adapters can be very cheap and often get hot when under heavy load.
That over time burns the prongs, so don't skip on good quality one and make sure it is firmly inserted.
I kind of like contractor 30amp plug on my Honda. Have the camper cord with adapter on it and twist-lock gives me good feeling.

barko1 wrote:
New to using a generator and while shopping I did notice that some, not many, come with a 30 amp connector that my RV would connect to but most have the standard duplex receptacles. Do I just plug in the the 110 with an adaptor to run the AC? THANKS

Even generators that DO come with a 30A outlet frequently do NOT have the TT-30 that is the RV industry "standard". Adapter from 5-30 or (locking) L5-30 to TT-30 are common. The Honda EU3000is comes with an L5-30 receptacle.

If the generator in question does not have some kind 30A receptacle, then it probably will not run your AC !