Recently, the pump in my class C has begun acting up. When I first turn it on, it takes much longer to pressurize than it did in the past. Usually 5 seconds or so, now more like 20. Once pressurized, the motor will run 5 seconds every two minutes or so.I've checked all of the faucets, showers, possible outlets.. all good. I I haven't found any water anyplace.Something peculiar I noticed recently. There are two valves used to control whether I can fill/use city water, or use the tank. One of them "whistles" when the system is pressurized, as thought it's sucking in air or blowing out air.Has anyone else ever run in to something like this?

A LARGE dead air space in the plumbing can cause something like that. About the only space big enough in most RVs is the water heater.It also could be the pump going bad.What happens if you open the whistling valve for a bit ??

When the pump is running is any water coming out the City water inlet?Could be a bad city water inlet check valve

never heard the whistlingbut ive seen them bleed pressure and cycle, its usually internal to the water pump, eventually it cycles more and more, then it gets noiser, then it starts leaking wateryou can look for leaks and wet spots in areas/cabinets/floors where the water lines are routedbut unless you have a drippy faucet, shower or toilet water line/valveits the pump

Still wrestling with this. To answer a few of the questions posed here.1) If I open the whistling valve just a little bit, the whistling stops. There are two valves involved here. I close one and open the other to fill, then reverse the closings to run the pump. The one I open to fill the tank is the one that whistles when it's closed. The one I open to run the pump is free-wheeling, but seems to work. 2) There is no water running from the city water fill. (I had hoped this was the issue, as it seemed an easy fix.)3) The pump is a year old. As a test, I replaced it with an old pump I had (as a spare) and the results were exactly identical. Doesn't mean both pumps aren't bad, I suppose.I'm wondering if pulling the city water fitting and plugging the inlet somehow would be a way to either confirm or deny a check valve.Short of that, I think I'm looking at replacing the valves for filling/running water. I've been over every inch of the interior plumbing and find no water anywhere.Thanks for the tips.

I would bet there is a bit of trash in the pump valve body, which both makes it take longer to pressurize, and lets the pressure bleed back in to the tank- on edit, I see you tried two pumps. Hmm...

Plumbing issue - Air leak? | Good Sam Community

11 Replies

joebedford
Nomad II
Jun 06, 2017
I google'd whistling valve and I still don't know what it is in an RV
.
DrewE
Explorer II
Jun 06, 2017
Chris Bryant wrote:
Lynnmor wrote:
I think that the whistling tank fill valve doesn't completely seal.

That makes the most sense.

I also agree with this. It would let the pressure in the system gradually leak down, the water leaking into the fresh water tank so it doesn't actually go anywhere it shouldn't generally be (that is, it wouldn't drip on the ground or floor or whatever).

Maybe by working it open and shut a few times you can get it to seal properly. Maybe not, and replacing it would be in order.
CapnCampn
Explorer III
Jun 06, 2017
you can plug the city water fill with one of these:

Shut Off Valve

or even one of these:

Hose Wye

Any hardware store will carry them.

CC
Sam_Spade
Explorer
Jun 06, 2017
mrmoonpie wrote:

1) If I open the whistling valve just a little bit, the whistling stops.

And when you DO that, what comes out of the valve ?

IF that valve doesn't empty to the outside, then it probably needs to be replaced because it is leaking and allowing the backpressure which shuts the pump off to bleed down.

If that valve DOES empty to the outside and water does not come out when the valve is opened......then leave it open until water does come out.
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Jun 06, 2017
Lynnmor wrote:
I think that the whistling tank fill valve doesn't completely seal.

That makes the most sense.
Lynnmor
Explorer II
Jun 06, 2017
I think that the whistling tank fill valve doesn't completely seal.
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Jun 06, 2017
I would bet there is a bit of trash in the pump valve body, which both makes it take longer to pressurize, and lets the pressure bleed back in to the tank- on edit, I see you tried two pumps. Hmm...
mrmoonpie
Explorer
Jun 06, 2017
Still wrestling with this. To answer a few of the questions posed here.

1) If I open the whistling valve just a little bit, the whistling stops. There are two valves involved here. I close one and open the other to fill, then reverse the closings to run the pump.
The one I open to fill the tank is the one that whistles when it's closed. The one I open to run the pump is free-wheeling, but seems to work.

2) There is no water running from the city water fill. (I had hoped this was the issue, as it seemed an easy fix.)

3) The pump is a year old. As a test, I replaced it with an old pump I had (as a spare) and the results were exactly identical. Doesn't mean both pumps aren't bad, I suppose.

I'm wondering if pulling the city water fitting and plugging the inlet somehow would be a way to either confirm or deny a check valve.

Short of that, I think I'm looking at replacing the valves for filling/running water. I've been over every inch of the interior plumbing and find no water anywhere.

Thanks for the tips.
MrWizard
Moderator
Jun 05, 2017
never heard the whistling
but ive seen them bleed pressure and cycle, its usually internal to the water pump, eventually it cycles more and more, then it gets noiser, then it starts leaking water

you can look for leaks and wet spots in areas/cabinets/floors where the water lines are routed
but unless you have a drippy faucet, shower or toilet water line/valve
its the pump
darsben1
Explorer
Jun 04, 2017
When the pump is running is any water coming out the City water inlet?

Could be a bad city water inlet check valve