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AStinker-'s avatar
AStinker-
Explorer
Mar 22, 2014

Portable panels wire size

Hey guys, I need some help. Would you consider giving me some advice please?

I’m putting together a portable solar panel setup. The panel’s will be the following.

Max Power: 140Wp
Open Circuit Voltage (Voc): 21.0V
Short Circuit Current (Isc): 8.40A
Maximum Power Voltage (Vmp): 17.0V
Maximum Power Current (Imp): 8.00A

Originally I was planning on paralleling 2 of them on the same wires and just jumpering directly to my batteries when I need to use them but several said don’t do it that way so I got scared and decided I will probably get a controller. It will probably be PWM Charge Controller big enough so I can use it when I do a permanent roof install.

I would like to be able to set the panels up at least 100 ft from my batteries / (PWM Controller) if necessary to find sunlight. I was planning on using a 2 conductor 10 ga stranded wire to accomplish this. But after reading all the discussion on wire size from solar panels to controller on the thread mena661 started “Panel to Solar Controller Wire Size” for his new solar build I’m wondering if I will have too much of a voltage drop at that distance. So I would appreciate your advice if you would consider it. Will 100 ft of 10 ga wire from 2 of these panels work or not?

It would not be a deal breaker if I need to add a 2nd cable or even a 3rd if I needed to as I can buy 100 ft of stranded 2 conductor 10 ga wire for $35.00. The problem is I don’t know what I need.

I’m not sure I’m using the calculator that was posted on mena661’s thread correctly but what I am entering is Wire Size: 10 AWG Voltage: 21.8 Phase: DC Number of conductors: Single set of conductors Distance: 100 Ft Load Current : 8.95 Amp. The RESULTS: Voltage drop: 1.79 Voltage drop percentage: 8.21% Voltage at the end: 20.01. Will it work but not efficiently??? I don’t know. Then when I increase Load Current for 2 panels to 17.9 Amps it doubles the losses which drops the Voltage at the end to 18.22 volts. But also I don’t know what the minimum voltage into the controller should be for it to achieve reasonable bulk & absorption charge when batteries are at 50 to 80% SOC.

My short term reason for solar is to supplement my generator when off grid where there is limited generator run time. I want to get the most out of the panels that I can with existing conditions but right now I do not need the panels for topping off or equalizing my batteries. I will have a 485 Amp battery bank, will be off grid no more than 4 days at a time & will be on back on grid afterwards long enough to top off & equalize batteries as necessary. My problem is I will be running a 5 cu ft residential freezer with an inverter. It pulls 1.4 amp AC & I anticipate it will run at a min 50% to a max 75% of the time. If 50% of the time it will take 180 of my 240 usable amps if 75% of the time it will use over my 240 usable amps. I have a 55 amp Iota converter with Q4 controller plus a portable 40 amp charger I will be running with a generator but concerned if I can only get 2 or 3 hours of gen run time. My goal is to get as much as possible but hopefully at least supplement enough amp hrs from the portable to keep from killing my batteries. I think I will need to have the controller set so it never has over a 14.9 or 15 volt temperature compensated output but I don’t know what the voltage from the solar panels need to be to accomplish this when my batteries are at say a 60% SOC. If you could advice me it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Alan
  • The Good: Your AC freezer, once it reaches thermostat setpoint will have a duty cycle of about 1/4, i.e. 25% runtime, even in a warm cabin area. Make sure you size the inverter big enough to handle the lock rotor draw of the appliance, probably 5-7 amps.

    The Bad: Most of those wire size calculators should be used with two conductors since you have both a (+) and (-) phase. Don't know if the one you used calculates like that or not.

    The Ugly: 100' is a long run. You will have some voltage and power loss at that distance, even using #10AWG. Since you plan to mount the modules at some point so some of that wire would be sacrificed and this is an adjunct to generator use, I'd just use it and surrender the lost power.

    FWIW, when I was wiring my stuff, I soon realized I'd need some larger gauge wire (#4AWG) so I just bought a whole 100' roll of #4. I used the #4 for module to controller connections, also. The larger #4 welding cable was $1.00/ft. and I'm glad I got it, it is very easy to work with and I'm not throwing away as many watts.
  • Those are 12V nominal panels. Only on an incredibly sunny perfect day will you see 21V, most of the time you will see 16V to 20V depending on conditions. Putting the long wire run here will get you the best results.

    100ft is quite the run. 16ish volts (at the end of the run) is enough for a cheap controller, but you won't see much benefit of MPPT at that voltage.

    Have you looked at higher wattage residential type panels? These panels have a much higher voltage which means lower line losses. You do have to buy a more expensive controller however.

    I considered building my own portable solar kit, but ended up buying this: 160W Foldable Solar Panel They also have smaller wattage versions, but the boss (DW) would only let me buy one.

    The cheap controller surprised me - it actually seems to put out a decent voltage and current. I had originally planned to modify the panels to use different wire, swap out the controller, replace connectors, etc. After testing them out, I will just use them as-is.
  • Almot's avatar
    Almot
    Explorer III
    pianotuna wrote:
    Hi Almot,

    Unfortunately going above 15.4 volts can play havoc with the control boards in a modern day RV. There has to be a finite limit to voltage.

    Didn't think about that. Never late to learn, eh?

    With my particular batts the Absorb should've been 15.4V at freezing point, but I don't camp where daytime temps are at or below freezing. Another good news is that Absorb is not reached until at least a few hours after the sunrise, and by then temps are higher. I realize that this can be a problem in winter in prairies.

    Then the OP is alright with input voltages (after the wire drop) as low as 15. There will be some additional drop in the controller, so the output won't exceed 15.

    My controller allows setting all kinds of voltage limits though.
  • Also your inverter won't start at 15v (actual) on up, so 14.9 is the limit for that.
  • Hi Almot,

    Unfortunately going above 15.4 volts can play havoc with the control boards in a modern day RV. There has to be a finite limit to voltage.
  • Almot's avatar
    Almot
    Explorer III
    AStinker- wrote:
    I think I will need to have the controller set so it never has over a 14.9 or 15 volt temperature compensated output

    You don't set a controller with a temp compensation not to go over certain Absorb voltage. You only set a default 77F Absorb setpoint. Controller will adjust the Absorb voltage downwards when it gets too hot, and upwards (from 77F) when it's cold. If your 77F Absorb is 14.5, you need controller to be able to make ~16V in a cold weather. You don't worry about high input voltage - it will be clipped. But when input voltage is below 16 or whatever Absorb is needed on a cold day, the controller won't be able to raise. So you need the input minimum 16V or so.
  • Hi,


    What is the maximum voltage you intend to be going into the battery bank from the controller?

    If the input voltage exceeds that then the rest will be clipped by the controller.

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