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BFL13's avatar
BFL13
Explorer II
Jun 04, 2019

Possible MH Engine Battery with Amp Hours Too? UPDATE

Battery in little van we just got ( 2016 Ram ProMaster City "Wagon") for us and the dogs--works great for that! :)



So this battery lists both 700 cranking plus 70AH, but don't know at what rate that AH is. It is smaller than a 27, and is made in Hungary it says on it. (10.5 x 6.5 x 6 height in inches)

We usually say that you don't see AH and cranking amps together, but here it is. I am thinking it would be an interesting option for an engine battery in a MH like our Class C if you needed to cycle it with no house batts or whatever scenario?

Anybody familiar with these? I have not done any Google research on this battery (yet).

EDIT--I have not yet scraped that sticker off to get at those screw top cell covers and use my hydrometer. So far I am "recovering" it using my VEC1093DBD in Equalize mode. It is taking a few hours of that so far (batt is at least 3.5 years old under previous owner(s))

OTOH it starts right up every time, so nobody would know anything unless they were a "trained RV.Net Graduate" like we all are :) , and then just waited till someday it "needs a new battery".
  • My idea with the OP battery is no good, as pointed out by Mex, regardless of the sticker numbers.

    Land-yacht has it right with his AGM using it for both jobs in his small RV.

    BTW you can't just use a 24 in there instead of OEM. They have pos and neg attachments on top that add height, as the new way of doing things. So that is why the OEM batt is so low. Same thing in our Chev Sonic. The wires are too short to reach the posts in a taller size regular 24. They are out to get you! :( Not an RV problem though.
  • ALL batteries have a CCA and Amp/Hr rating. Auto manufacturer will have a spec on both for proper operation.
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    Among others 70 would be a group 24 (also 73 if I'm not mistaken) the differences are shape and terminal placement.

    NOTE that this is a starting battery.. YOu want DEEP CYCLE for the house.

    What is the difference? Starting batteries are designed to deliver up to 20% of those 70 amp hours in a matter of seconds.

    Deep cycle 50% over a period of hours (10).
  • You "could" replace the little battery with a Concorde Lifeline. Without over-discharging it, it would serve as a dual purpose battery for light loads like lighting. But you would need to keep an eye on voltage to stop the draw before the battery goes dead flat. The lifeline is inherently deep-cycle and not a dual purpose marine battery as it has a hefty cranking ability and far better tolerance than any RV battery. They aren't cheap.
  • Ok, so it is not actually a "real" dual purpose battery after all. Oh well.

    The little van has a few of those 12v sockets here and there to plug into, so I thought maybe it needed more of a dual purpose battery than in a car.
  • 50 meter dash versus 10 Km marathon. The high surface area of sponge plate makes it quite sensitive to cycling. I would not recommend cycling at all.
  • Don't all batteries have a cranking amp rating as well as an amp hour rating, whether or not it's on an external label? Most batteries can do both, start a car, and/or power DC appliances, albeit at different rates of discharge and at varying efficiencies, depending on the physical limitations of the battery itself? Some batteries do one task better than the other, but they can all do both, as far as I know, within physical/chemical capacity limits.