PROBLEM REMOVING BULBS

Individual LEDs are polarity sensitive.

LED bulbs that are not polarity sensitive are not necessarily higher quality. They include a bridge rectifier in the circuitry which increases the cost a little.

LED bulbs that are good over a larger voltage range have a voltage regulator built into the circuitry.

Some LED bulbs have both a bridge rectifier and a voltage regulator built in. They are not necessarily higher quality. They are more expensive to make, for the same quality, because of the additional circuitry.

Almot wrote:
I think all LED lights are polarity-sensitive, no matter what brand.

High qualtiy LED repalcement bulbs aren't polarity sensitive. THe ones I bought aren't:

Here's the write up I did a number of years ago, about lights I got here

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/22772799/gotomsg/22772838.cfm#22772838

A $40 night light, holy moly! We replaced 17 lights in all and spent $55 total.

Since JiminDenver mentioned me, I'll give my $0.02 worth, even though I had 1141 bulbs, not 921. Only the adapters are different.

I like the warm white 36-1210 panels from 2011_led, AKA duan_led2010. Clicky

He also has packages of 10. See his store

I bought some 36-1210 from another seller and found they were much dimmer, warmer light and much poorer quality. Unfortunately I don't remember his name. They were cheaper too.

As Jim said I have fixtures with frosted lenses that disperse the light from the panels. The surface where the panels are attached is plastic and I found that gently sanding the area made the panels stick very well to the fixture.

Hope you find lights you like.

Thanks for all these replies. That's more than enough information to get me going. I am not sure I did a 180 but between that and twisting the wires to the outside that should do the trick.

As it turns out the two bulbs I bought from CW provide a low level of light now that it's dark out. They make a fine $40 worth of night light! One RV store I shopped yesterday went to the trouble of putting a "bulb" in a pancake fixture and touching its wires to a deep cycle battery. That one threw off a lot of very white light, too much. He can order a softer version. I will try to buy a sample unit. They should work. But we are about to leave for home in a couple days, so it may have to wait a month or so until we return.

I still will have to find a suitable pair for the dinette light.

Went thru this with my friends TT the other day. The wire on the base of the bulb needs to be toward the edge of the bulb. If you look in the socket with a flashlight you'll get the picture, if the wire is not toward the edge it will miss the contact in the base.

As others said flip it over. I had to bend the wires a bit to insure contact.

I'll have to go back through my thread ans see if any of the other sellers of the units I use still have them. They are the 48 1210 panels and seem to be pretty popular. I did pick up one of the 10 for $17.99 packs and the only complaint is that they are a little too warm in color.

What kind of fixtures do you have? I find there is a difference in opinion in what works depending on which you have. The amount of light needed, cob or panel and even how well the panel stays up.

My fixtures are clear with curved metal reflector. The panel sticks to it well and illuminates under it very well but the spread is limited. A cob gives better over all lighting and a small lens in the cover directs some more othe light down but not like the panel.

Getting the panels to stick can be a issue but not for me. I cleaned the reflector with denatured alcohol and they stick so well that removing one without damaging the panel took quite a bit of effort. Cobs pop in and out like the regular bulbs.

Luckily we waited to install most of the LEDs while we were camping. The bright panel is great where we need it very well illuminated but they are over bearing in the ceiling fixtures. We use 9 1210 cobs on both sides of the four ceiling fixtures. They light the whole trailer nicely with less power than two of the panels.

Have a frosted lens, ask tenbear. :)

Probabaly polarity sensitive. You can try turning it over.

After buying quite a few samples, I bought these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141031070591?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

They are brighter than the 921's and have a very similar (nice warm white color). I can't really tell you about longevity yet.... I bought 2 sets (20) and 5 didn't work at first. I don't think they are supposed to be polarity sensitive but, I put the 5 in other fixtures and they worked fine.

Good luck.

Some LED lights have voltage regulators and/or bridge rectifiers built into them. The ones with bridge rectifiers are usually sold as AC/DC lights, they are not polarity sensitive. Certainly, the individual LEDs are polarity sensitive.

I think all LED lights are polarity-sensitive, no matter what brand. Regular incandescent bulbs don't care where the positive or negative wire is. To think about it, LED = light emitting diode. When it's called a diode, it passes current one-way only, and the other way - nada.