Progressive Industries Electrical Management System

It's also possible the PE2 occurred when replugging. Just happened to me because of a worn plug which will be replaced.

Even though I started this subject I agree it's a minor consideration. Also I don't know of any good way to detect an unexpected disconnect vs intentional unless there there is manual input via say a switch.

CA Traveler wrote:
It's also possible the PE2 occurred when replugging. Just happened to me because of a worn plug which will be replaced.

That's an interesting thought as I did note that the campsite post 30 amp receptacle was in pretty rough shape, so much so that when we left the following day I stopped at the gate house to let them know. Hmmm, wish I had the remote display for my EMS here at the house so I could do some testing to clarify just how this thing functions.

My unit is 11 years old so there may have been changes.

CA Traveler wrote:
My unit is 11 years old so there may have been changes.

Perhaps it's worth a call to Progressive to ask if there have been any changes and if so whether you can upgrade yours.

Tomorrow looks like a nice day here so I think I'll try to retrieve the EMS remote display from my winter stored trailer and perform the genset test you mentioned to figure out just what "previous error" functionality really means.

CA Traveler wrote:
It's also possible the PE2 occurred when replugging. Just happened to me because of a worn plug which will be replaced.

So I did retrieve my EMS remote display from our trailer this morning and duplicated your test using my own EU2000i as source power because it has a floating neutral output that is interpreted by the Progressive EMS as an "open ground", a condition that can be corrected with the use of a G-N bonding plug. Indeed, you were absolutely correct - once power is removed completely the EMS loses any "previous error" code, so it's therefore not held in any kind of EPROM memory. That also means that because I did have a PE2 code when camping it had to have occurred after campsite power was restored, not before. However, I'm still a bit perplexed at just when the EMS loses memory - when incoming power is totally disconnected or when it drops below the display unit's stated operating range of 78 to 255 volts. :h Interesting stuff though ... thanks! :B

I installed the hardwired version under our dinette seat since the panel/converter was mounted on the end. If there is a problem, I just need to lift the cushion and plywood off. I also got the remote readout because the EMS is mounted vertically and wouldn't be able to see the display on the case. I mounted the remote on the floor.

The blinking display is pretty annoying. We have enough LED displays in the kitchen/living area that provide enough night lighting - blue and green. Adding a red display would look like Xmas and miake it too bright...

Personally I don't like the design of the remote display as it's meant for service mounting only. I'd rather have one that would fit on a standard sized flush mount outlet box cover if I were to mount it on a wall.

I'll probably mount the remote inside an upper cabinet where it's easy to get to. I don't need to see the voltage reading since we have a permanently mounted LED display on the wall which is the important one to keep an eye on. The cable that comes with the remote is something like 20' long and is a few feet short of my preferred mounting location at one end of a line of cabinets.

If I wanted an LED readout with AC volts and amps I'd look at something like this DROK item which doesn't blink either (around $20 on Amazon & ebay).

I really like our PI EMS. It shut us down at one CG this season with simultaneous open ground and low volts. These things are worth every penny they cost.