Propane gauge not operational

Sal,

Just curious ... did you get your propane gauge fixed yet?

Propane problems can be a bear. We recently had to have a leaking fill-valve replaced in our tank. They had to burn off nearly a full tank of propane to empty it and then remove the tank in order to install a new valve.

P.S. "C. R. Gorge"? Boy, you were a long way from home. How did the trip turn out?

Salvo wrote:
Thanks for the links and info. I now know I can fill the tank without complications should the gauge need replacement.

There is no voltage at the cables going to the gauge; with or without depressing the LEVELS TEST switch. If the tank is empty then the gauge should have zero ohm, and shouldn't see any voltage. The blade connectors are too tight to disconnect to determine if voltage is present. I measure 2 ohm at the connector, which says there's no propane (the gauge may have a 90 to zero ohm range). I've been operating at least 3 days in this mode. Guess it's time to fill the tank and see what happens.

IIRC the typical propane resistance level gauge is around 0-90 ohms or maybe 0-150 ohms. call any propane vendor and they can tell you what the sender resistance value should be.

Thanks for the links and info. I now know I can fill the tank without complications should the gauge need replacement.

There is no voltage at the cables going to the gauge; with or without depressing the LEVELS TEST switch. If the tank is empty then the gauge should have zero ohm, and shouldn't see any voltage. The blade connectors are too tight to disconnect to determine if voltage is present. I measure 2 ohm at the connector, which says there's no propane (the gauge may have a 90 to zero ohm range). I've been operating at least 3 days in this mode. Guess it's time to fill the tank and see what happens.

enblethen wrote:
Manual says it is electrical operated. That would mean one of the two wires must have power.

more likely that it has a standard propane resistance element for the level. like a float in a gas tank, the element resistance varies with level. there is a common version with a standard resistance when full. gauge then can either (a) measure resistance and show the % full, or have the resistor element wired in series with a thermal or other gauge driven by 12V to show % full.

enblethen wrote:
Manual says it is electrical operated. That would mean one of the two wires must have power.

Yes, for the sending unit to 'see' inside the MH. I see no gauge needle in the pic.

Manual says it is electrical operated. That would mean one of the two wires must have power.

Salvo wrote:
=
Is this gauge easy to acquire and install? Yes
Is the propane going to rush out when removing gauge? No Need eye protection? No Hate to have the fridge run out of propane in this 100 degree heat at the C. R. Gorge.

The magnetic gauge is replaced by the 2 small Phillips screws. It has no connection to the inside of the tank. I don't see a needle on yours, so if when you fill the tank and still don't see a needle, replace the gauge.

This is the gauge you appear to have.
Rochester gauge

Manual with troubleshooting

I believe it is just a sending unit face gauge.

"In the area of LP gas measurement, a magnetic drive feature is important because a magnetic drive allows a signal from the float mechanism inside the tank to be transmitted through a solid bulkhead."

http://www.rochestergauges.com/pages/dials.html

If the float no longer works then it must be opened to replace.

I'm pretty sure if you have a broken float that the only recourse is to vent the tank to replace it. What about THIS in the meantime?

More on how that works HERE