Propane install
hey guys! first off thanks to anyone who ha helped my rebuild so far, will be uploading pics soon, and videos not as soon. anyway, I went to do the floor today and got interrupted by rain of course,...
Forum Discussion
Paying ANYONE to do ANYTHING these days is not cheap. When Quicksilver was built, I had a retired propane mechanic friend pitch in and offer his advice about how to plumb the system. "Gas appliances down the (center of the road) high side of the rig" He wanted schedule 80 black iron, I opted for schedule 80 hot dipped galvanized with individual filters at each tap. Flex line with a service loop coil. At that time the plumber's dope had lead in it. A small can was incredibly heavy.
Between plumbing, electrical, and the ship's carpenter, it took some careful planning to orchestrate who did what, when. I used an 83 gallon motor fuel tank for vapor LPG. One issue. Electric (yacht) LPG solenoid valves consume something like 8 watts when open. That idea was rejected. The tank was revolved about 40 degrees to bring the valves closer to the side panel door. The fast fill port was OK, the liquid valve was removed, a 90 degree extension was calculated and oriented on both the vapor and the "10%" valves to place their pickup points correctly. The 10% valve vents at 73 gallons, a bit of overkill.
Avoid flexing of the main manifold gas pipe. I used tailpipe hangers constructed out of rubber and laminated plies that look very much like big rig mud flaps. One hanger every 18", and only 2" of the strap is used. Where the tank is placed, means having a "T" enter the main line. I got fancy and had an Aeroquip stainless braided LPG rated hose made up to connect tank to steel pipe. Because the goodies are hidden from sight, I used separate regulators. The first is a 10 pound unit which is red, the second a standard gray unit. Then an Ashcroft liquid filled pressure gauge with a fifteen inches of water column span.
Wrapping LPG pipe threads with teflon tape is a recipe for disaster. Check with your local LPG tank truck distributor and they'll recommend something like Rector Seal paste. I've helped others clean out tiny scraps of white teflon tape blocking a stove orifice and hot water heater orifice.
Soapy water leak test all connections a couple days apart after a major installation. We tested mine, by shutting off individual appliance valves, then applying 10 pounds pressure. This can be done with air. My friend found 3 very tiny leaks, at the individual shut off valves. They were exchanged for a different brand.
Use good tools. I still have my Rigid pipe wrenches. All nut and bolt fastenings use nylock nylon insert lock nuts. Quicksilver has a teak over 3/16" steel floor. I used a product called NUTSERT to rivet threads into the steel floor then BLUE Loc-Tite on appliance bolts to eliminate the possibility of accidental vibration loosening. Thin nylon pads are between floor and appliance feet. You won't need all that for a wood floor.
Drill your hose for appliances. Stick nipples attached to T's through the floor then measure halfway down the nipple threads on both sides of the pipe. Get a propane shop to cut and thread the lengths of pipe for you. My friend pointed out a slightly too long a length of pipe is far more preferable than a slightly too short length of pipe. One more tightening turn of the "T" nipple will shorten the distance. Jam the pipe nipples up through the holes in the floor and then hand thread pipe caps onto the end of the nipples to keep the pipe length from falling to the ground. Measure the correct height for the pipe then cut 2/4's with a V-notch for the pipe to rest. Then hangers can be attached to the pipe and frame or floor.
Hope some of these tips can be applied to your job
Between plumbing, electrical, and the ship's carpenter, it took some careful planning to orchestrate who did what, when. I used an 83 gallon motor fuel tank for vapor LPG. One issue. Electric (yacht) LPG solenoid valves consume something like 8 watts when open. That idea was rejected. The tank was revolved about 40 degrees to bring the valves closer to the side panel door. The fast fill port was OK, the liquid valve was removed, a 90 degree extension was calculated and oriented on both the vapor and the "10%" valves to place their pickup points correctly. The 10% valve vents at 73 gallons, a bit of overkill.
Avoid flexing of the main manifold gas pipe. I used tailpipe hangers constructed out of rubber and laminated plies that look very much like big rig mud flaps. One hanger every 18", and only 2" of the strap is used. Where the tank is placed, means having a "T" enter the main line. I got fancy and had an Aeroquip stainless braided LPG rated hose made up to connect tank to steel pipe. Because the goodies are hidden from sight, I used separate regulators. The first is a 10 pound unit which is red, the second a standard gray unit. Then an Ashcroft liquid filled pressure gauge with a fifteen inches of water column span.
Wrapping LPG pipe threads with teflon tape is a recipe for disaster. Check with your local LPG tank truck distributor and they'll recommend something like Rector Seal paste. I've helped others clean out tiny scraps of white teflon tape blocking a stove orifice and hot water heater orifice.
Soapy water leak test all connections a couple days apart after a major installation. We tested mine, by shutting off individual appliance valves, then applying 10 pounds pressure. This can be done with air. My friend found 3 very tiny leaks, at the individual shut off valves. They were exchanged for a different brand.
Use good tools. I still have my Rigid pipe wrenches. All nut and bolt fastenings use nylock nylon insert lock nuts. Quicksilver has a teak over 3/16" steel floor. I used a product called NUTSERT to rivet threads into the steel floor then BLUE Loc-Tite on appliance bolts to eliminate the possibility of accidental vibration loosening. Thin nylon pads are between floor and appliance feet. You won't need all that for a wood floor.
Drill your hose for appliances. Stick nipples attached to T's through the floor then measure halfway down the nipple threads on both sides of the pipe. Get a propane shop to cut and thread the lengths of pipe for you. My friend pointed out a slightly too long a length of pipe is far more preferable than a slightly too short length of pipe. One more tightening turn of the "T" nipple will shorten the distance. Jam the pipe nipples up through the holes in the floor and then hand thread pipe caps onto the end of the nipples to keep the pipe length from falling to the ground. Measure the correct height for the pipe then cut 2/4's with a V-notch for the pipe to rest. Then hangers can be attached to the pipe and frame or floor.
Hope some of these tips can be applied to your job
