Proper Spot for Water Pressure Regulator
Where is the best place to put the water pressure regulator? At the rv park spigot or at the rv fresh water inlet.
Forum Discussion
- I put it at the spigot to somewhat protect the hose.
- I put it at the spigot. And sometimes I forget it!!!!
- I will add that I have one of the larger adjustable units. I have about a three foot hose that attaches to the spigot then the regulator and filter can lay on crate. Some spigots don't like too much weight.
- Spigot, why would you want to subject the hose to damaging pressure.
- Hook it at spigot then put on a 'wye' so water regulator controls pressure in both hoses...
*potable one for fresh water usage....in-line filter and just fill fresh water tank and use pump
*garden hose for general purpose usage.....washing down, black tank flush, spraying kids/dogs etc - I used to put it on the camper side. Why reduce pressure the full length of a 25 ft hose. That hose ain't going to burst..
And by the way im a plumber 30 years ... AFAIK all potable water systems must have an 80 psi regulator. Just like a home to code..
And pex in the new campers is rated min. 160+ psi.
200°F at 80 psi
180°F at 100 psi
74°F at 160 psi
I have never been to a campground with high pressure.
Its urban ledgend from the old camper days with old quest pipe that got brittle from the hot and cold temps.
But I got suckered into the hype. And I should know better in my trade
I put a cheapo 55 psi camco inline but stopped using it with the new camper.
Here is the scam. The red line reads high # 50 psi here...LOLOL ha ha ha..
Let me ask ya all..
When your water heater heats up, how much pressure does it increase you rv's plumbing from thermal expansion???
becuase when you add these pressure regulators they act as a check valve. Now you make your water system a closed system... So the thermal expansion has no where to go. So when heating hot water you can build PSI in the camper up up up to way over 100 psi..
Without the reducer/.check valve the expansion will push back to the campground water system..
Just like in a home when this occurs expansion tanks are installed near the water heaters for this purpose. Whenever a pressure reducing valve is put on the homes system.
Same as an RV.
Anyones relief valve on their water heaters weep/drip? Now you know why....
Remove the PRV/checkvalve, or ass a accumulator exp tank.
Just my thoughts is all...;) - Have been in campgrounds that WARNED of HIGH Pressure
Have been in campgrounds that had as HIGH as 120 PSI in system
Have seen potable water hoses that looked like a python that just swallowed a pig.....and then burst
RV Plumbing system is already a closed system......city water inlet has a check valve that prevents backflow of water from RV to City Water
PEX can handle HIGH pressure...even deals very well with freezing temps.
Fittings used in RV Plumbing system connections..not so much
RV water heaters....air pocket designed into tank to control pressure increases due to swelling of water when heated
Residential water heaters have same air pocket .....air gap in top of tank that is above the water line due to location of HOT Out Dip Tube
Just my thoughts. Old-Biscuit wrote:
Have been in campgrounds that WARNED of HIGH Pressure
Have been in campgrounds that had as HIGH as 120 PSI in system
Have seen potable water hoses that looked like a python that just swallowed a pig.....and then burst
Ive never seen it... Usually painfully low pressure due to everyone using water..
RV Plumbing system is already a closed system......city water inlet has a check valve that prevents backflow of water from RV to City Water
Not all.. Its a code thing. I think most would use booster pumps if anything as you couldn't get 80 psi to 100 campsites. But the booster pumps are good at regulating the pressure. Im sure they are connected to large storage tanks. This is where checkvalves would be added.
PEX can handle HIGH pressure...even deals very well with freezing temps.
Fittings used in RV Plumbing system connections..not so much
I have the same pex pipe and cinch fittings in my rv that I use when I pipe homes. And the same type sink/toiler supply threaded adapted. No different.
RV water heaters....air pocket designed into tank to control pressure increases due to swelling of water when heated
Residential water heaters have same air pocket .....air gap in top of tank that is above the water line due to location of HOT Out Dip Tube
Thats the dip tube sife. The hot side is not subject to said air gap as its a direct port ontop. Yes RV heaters are side port, and although there may be an air game I would think its harley sufficient size
In a proper expansion tank there is a bladder and thats filled with air. The air must be set at or near the incomming psi from the street.
A resting air gap cannot accomplish the same..
Just my thoughts.
My thoughts as well.
