Proper Spot for Water Pressure Regulator

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Have been in campgrounds that WARNED of HIGH Pressure
Have been in campgrounds that had as HIGH as 120 PSI in system
Have seen potable water hoses that looked like a python that just swallowed a pig.....and then burst

Ive never seen it... Usually painfully low pressure due to everyone using water..

RV Plumbing system is already a closed system......city water inlet has a check valve that prevents backflow of water from RV to City Water

Not all.. Its a code thing. I think most would use booster pumps if anything as you couldn't get 80 psi to 100 campsites. But the booster pumps are good at regulating the pressure. Im sure they are connected to large storage tanks. This is where checkvalves would be added.

PEX can handle HIGH pressure...even deals very well with freezing temps.
Fittings used in RV Plumbing system connections..not so much

I have the same pex pipe and cinch fittings in my rv that I use when I pipe homes. And the same type sink/toiler supply threaded adapted. No different.


RV water heaters....air pocket designed into tank to control pressure increases due to swelling of water when heated
Residential water heaters have same air pocket .....air gap in top of tank that is above the water line due to location of HOT Out Dip Tube

Thats the dip tube sife. The hot side is not subject to said air gap as its a direct port ontop. Yes RV heaters are side port, and although there may be an air game I would think its harley sufficient size

In a proper expansion tank there is a bladder and thats filled with air. The air must be set at or near the incomming psi from the street.

A resting air gap cannot accomplish the same..

Just my thoughts.

My thoughts as well.