Question for those who have replaced rv frig w/ residential
When you switched to residential Fridge did you block off the vents behind the fridge?
Forum Discussion
Yes.
The outside vents are no longer necessary for a residential fridge and blocking off the outside air can be beneficial when camping in high or low temperatures to the fridge operation.
RV fridges are air tight sealed from your living quarters and correct operation depends on those vents to create a "chimney" for correct operation, also keeps the unwanted combustion byproducts out of your living space.
Blocking off the vents also means you do not need to figure out how to seal around the sides, top and bottom of the residential fridge to prevent cold or heat from the outside of the RV getting into the RV.
Do be very aware that many residential fridges use the metal cabinet of the fridge as part of the cooling system, there may be refrigerant tubing under the fridge skin).
That means you should not add extra insulation to the top, bottom or sides of the fridge. You should also not drill into the top, bottom or sides of the fridge (or even the door faces surfaces), otherwise you take great risk of hitting one of the refrigerant tubes creating one huge doorstop.
For securing residential fridge in place, you can repurpose the door screw holes for the hinges on top of the fridge. On the side that has the door hinge, you can replace existing screws with ones that are long enough to go through the hinge plus the additional bracket that you add.
You only need top brackets as long as you have good solid wood framing to screw brackets to, that is all I am using and that has worked well for me for 12 yrs now, fridge hasn't budged at all.
The outside vents are no longer necessary for a residential fridge and blocking off the outside air can be beneficial when camping in high or low temperatures to the fridge operation.
RV fridges are air tight sealed from your living quarters and correct operation depends on those vents to create a "chimney" for correct operation, also keeps the unwanted combustion byproducts out of your living space.
Blocking off the vents also means you do not need to figure out how to seal around the sides, top and bottom of the residential fridge to prevent cold or heat from the outside of the RV getting into the RV.
Do be very aware that many residential fridges use the metal cabinet of the fridge as part of the cooling system, there may be refrigerant tubing under the fridge skin).
That means you should not add extra insulation to the top, bottom or sides of the fridge. You should also not drill into the top, bottom or sides of the fridge (or even the door faces surfaces), otherwise you take great risk of hitting one of the refrigerant tubes creating one huge doorstop.
For securing residential fridge in place, you can repurpose the door screw holes for the hinges on top of the fridge. On the side that has the door hinge, you can replace existing screws with ones that are long enough to go through the hinge plus the additional bracket that you add.
You only need top brackets as long as you have good solid wood framing to screw brackets to, that is all I am using and that has worked well for me for 12 yrs now, fridge hasn't budged at all.
