Quick electrical question : transfer switch vs charger

30 amp is the 120v rating 55 amp is the 12v rating.

With 2 batteries 35 amp is fine or spend more to get 55 if you like. Rare to draw more than 10 amps DC to run a trailer.

Three stage charging is very important when off-grid.

PD 4000 series, 3 stage

This one is 30 amp AC in and distribution with a 45 amp DC 3 stage converter.
Will work perfectly for what you need.

Forget anything that says WFCO. These are advertised as 3 stage but never seem to actually shift into boost mode and float mode is pretty hit or miss. In all practicality it is a slow charging 13.6 fixed voltage supply.

DrewE wrote:
It's not precisely correct (but nearly so) to say that the rating of the converter has nothing to do with the AC current it uses, but that's not a concern for sizing an electrical panel. It may come into play if you want to use a smallish generator; a larger converter will need a larger generator to produce full output (or when called on to produce full output).

For two batteries, anything larger than perhaps 50A is quickly getting in the area of diminishing returns.

Wiring would be a little easier with an all-in-one unit, but wiring a standalone converter is not especially difficult. It needs an outlet for AC power in, a chassis safety ground connection, and a positive and negative DC output connection that go to the battery (perhaps via a second set of main lugs on the DC distribution panel, or perhaps more or less directly).

This unit would be a good option; the Progressive Dynamics converters are among the best available.

If you aren't going to be spending many hours actually driving, I would suggest getting a two-way fridge rather than a three-way fridge if there's any real cost difference. The 12V setting is only really useful while you're driving and the engine alternator can supply the power, and the amount of propane you'd save is pretty minimal (the fridge doesn't use all that much to begin with) if you don't spend many hours driving. I think the capital saved there would more than pay for the better converter. Of course, if you happen to have a 3 way fridge sitting in your garage or something, it's a moot point.

If you're planning on running the microwave off of battery power using an inverter, be aware that two batteries is rather marginal in that scenario. Getting a Panasonic Inverter microwave would be well worth considering in that case. (The inverter circuit design in the microwave allows it to throttle down on lower power settings, as compared to virtually all other microwaves that operate at full power cyclically on the lower power settings. The Inverter microwave circuit is also much less dependent on the peak AC voltage and hence works better when the AC inverter output sags under load.) If you only will use it with a generator or shore power connection, then any old microwave that suits your fancy is acceptable.

I was planning on getting a Powerhouse PH2100PRi, 2100watts it's rated at 16.7amp, is that ok?

The 3 way fridge is brand new and waiting to be hooked up, I also got a convection/micro-wave oven :-/

quasi wrote:
If you plan to run the generator to charge the battery bank, I agree with the previous posters, spend a little more for your converter and get a decent 4 stage system. It will easily pay for itself in reduced fuel consumption during recharge cycles and will let you get a lot more life out of the batteries. They can be had from Amazon for under $200.

Jim

3 or 4 stages??

This is the best deal I found on a 3 stage charger/converter with fuse panels (2-110v circuits and 6-12v circuits)
http://www.amazon.com/WFCO-WF-8735-P-Black-Power-Center/dp/B004LF14Q4/ref=pd_sim_sbs_422_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51nvZk%2BR19L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=132WVK5EXJY4Y7Y7XQ5B

It's not precisely correct (but nearly so) to say that the rating of the converter has nothing to do with the AC current it uses, but that's not a concern for sizing an electrical panel. It may come into play if you want to use a smallish generator; a larger converter will need a larger generator to produce full output (or when called on to produce full output).

For two batteries, anything larger than perhaps 50A is quickly getting in the area of diminishing returns.

Wiring would be a little easier with an all-in-one unit, but wiring a standalone converter is not especially difficult. It needs an outlet for AC power in, a chassis safety ground connection, and a positive and negative DC output connection that go to the battery (perhaps via a second set of main lugs on the DC distribution panel, or perhaps more or less directly).

This unit would be a good option; the Progressive Dynamics converters are among the best available.

If you aren't going to be spending many hours actually driving, I would suggest getting a two-way fridge rather than a three-way fridge if there's any real cost difference. The 12V setting is only really useful while you're driving and the engine alternator can supply the power, and the amount of propane you'd save is pretty minimal (the fridge doesn't use all that much to begin with) if you don't spend many hours driving. I think the capital saved there would more than pay for the better converter. Of course, if you happen to have a 3 way fridge sitting in your garage or something, it's a moot point.

If you're planning on running the microwave off of battery power using an inverter, be aware that two batteries is rather marginal in that scenario. Getting a Panasonic Inverter microwave would be well worth considering in that case. (The inverter circuit design in the microwave allows it to throttle down on lower power settings, as compared to virtually all other microwaves that operate at full power cyclically on the lower power settings. The Inverter microwave circuit is also much less dependent on the peak AC voltage and hence works better when the AC inverter output sags under load.) If you only will use it with a generator or shore power connection, then any old microwave that suits your fancy is acceptable.

Hi,

A 55 amp converter (what you are calling a charger) would draw a maximum of about 10 amps @ 120 volts.

120 AC volts goes into the converter, and 12 DC volts come out.

Ok I'm looking for a "smart 3 stage charger" as we speak.

Quick question, is it better to separate the fuse panels from the charger/converter? I seem to think that the chargers who have the panels included would be easier for me to install (since I never done this before) and maybe cheaper? but maybe they generate more heat since they're all packed up in a tight box? any thoughts/advice?

I know this is going to sound dumb, you guys explained that the 30amp are for AC and the 55amp is for DC and has nothing to do with the 30amp, then what size is big enough the Charger? I've seen smart chargers at 35, 45, 55, 75amps etc... which one do I need? Again sorry if I sound lost :-/ but thanks for the info and your patience guys.

If you plan to run the generator to charge the battery bank, I agree with the previous posters, spend a little more for your converter and get a decent 4 stage system. It will easily pay for itself in reduced fuel consumption during recharge cycles and will let you get a lot more life out of the batteries. They can be had from Amazon for under $200.

Jim

The 55A is for the converter (DC section) and has nothing to do with the AC Source Power.

30A AC Source will be the total amount of AC Load before tripping your AC Source.
30A transfer switch is part of the AC side. Allows 2 different AC Sources but only one AC Source feeding your AC Power Panel

55A converter is amount of DC Load converter can handle before it goes into overload mode (shuts down)......supplying DC System and battery charging.


Don't see specs on that Atwood Model but suspect it is not a 'smart charger' (3 stage). Most likely just a single stage charger.
Boondocking and batteries.....go with a 3 stage converter/charger.
Costs more but much better investment

evy,

The 120 volt alternating current (AC) system is 30 amp.

The 55 amp converter provides direct current (DC) power to charge the battery bank and run the twelve volt system of the RV.

If not going solar right away (and it is a no brainer to have solar), then at least do a #8 or #6 prewire for solar.

The APS-5530 is a single stage charger (or in rv speak, converter). It may eat your battery bank for lunch. I'd get a better 3 stage converter such as an Iota, or Progressive Dynamics.