Radiator Coolant Fan Runs All The Time
Noticed my hydraulic radiator fan is running all the time. Gillig tells me that there is a sensor to control the fan solenoid. Gillig sent me a circuit diagram for a 1994 bus with rear battery b...
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Ok...I'm sure everyone is waiting with batted breath.
I did find the Air Inlet Temperature Sensor
and it did have the correct color coded wires.
I have said this before, I love weather pack connectors, you can make up what ever you need, they can be taken apart and rebuild another way. In this case I needed to connect the red and yellow wires to test if the Air Inlet Temperature Sensor was the problem.
This is the shut plug I made up.
And now for the test, I fired up the engine with the sensor unplugged, the fan ran full speed, I plugged in my shut plug and the fan slowed right down.
Success.
So now is the question will the fan run up to speed when the coolant reaches 195?
Strangely enough I cannot answer that.
I ran the engine at 1,500 RPM for 30 minutes and the temperature gauge never went above 170. I let it run while I greased every grease fitting under the Motor Home, still never went above 170. I loaded the Motor Home with stuff for our trip to Bowling Green, still did not go above 170.
I took the Motor Home for a drive all the way around the outer loop of Rochester (30 miles) still did not go above 170.
I started to suspect the gauge was bad, drove to my home and got an infrared heat gun, and went all over the engine. The highest temperature I got was 175.
I have said in the past this radiator and fan are huge. Apparently on a 75 degree day the fan running at slow speed moves enough air to keep the engine cool.
The real test will come when we drive to Bowling Green pulling the trailer.
It is a simple fix to get the fan to come back on if it does over heat, just remove the shut plug.
I did find the Air Inlet Temperature Sensor
and it did have the correct color coded wires.
I have said this before, I love weather pack connectors, you can make up what ever you need, they can be taken apart and rebuild another way. In this case I needed to connect the red and yellow wires to test if the Air Inlet Temperature Sensor was the problem.
This is the shut plug I made up.
And now for the test, I fired up the engine with the sensor unplugged, the fan ran full speed, I plugged in my shut plug and the fan slowed right down.
Success.
So now is the question will the fan run up to speed when the coolant reaches 195?
Strangely enough I cannot answer that.
I ran the engine at 1,500 RPM for 30 minutes and the temperature gauge never went above 170. I let it run while I greased every grease fitting under the Motor Home, still never went above 170. I loaded the Motor Home with stuff for our trip to Bowling Green, still did not go above 170.
I took the Motor Home for a drive all the way around the outer loop of Rochester (30 miles) still did not go above 170.
I started to suspect the gauge was bad, drove to my home and got an infrared heat gun, and went all over the engine. The highest temperature I got was 175.
I have said in the past this radiator and fan are huge. Apparently on a 75 degree day the fan running at slow speed moves enough air to keep the engine cool.
The real test will come when we drive to Bowling Green pulling the trailer.
It is a simple fix to get the fan to come back on if it does over heat, just remove the shut plug.
