I may have soldered as many or more splice and termination joints as anyone else.
If you choose terminals insulated with NYLON the tool that was described with a prong on one side of the jaw will work fine. A lot of people tried challenging me by claiming such a configuration would damage the terminal insulation They all walked off a little poorer.
In marine work or in a salted road environment Solder is mandatory not an an option. The tiniest pin prick of a hole will soon have green powder not metal travelling up the copper. In an engine room especially diesel a sheen of oil seems to coat everything so eliminate the battery bank and the engine room has protection.
Move up to the flying bridge on a sea going vessel and things get challenging.
The issue of solder versus crimp filters down to one thing. Does the installer Know his way around his job? A soldered connected must be clamped for strain relief. By Adel clamp or by Zip tie it will stop the flexing and breaking at the terminal
I've never had a single bad connection come back on me. 65 years and tens of thousands of soldered terminals. The copper to be soldered must be as shiny as a new penny. Pure lead is the most corrosion resistant solder but it's high melting temperature makes it a pain to work with. Lead acid batteries have a lot of experience dealing with acid.
The best heat shrink brand I have ever used is sold by ICO RALLY and is black cured with black meltable inner liner. But it's only sold in hundred foot lengths 25x4' I wish I could find a vendor who sells it in smaller lots.
The vibration fallacy
I used to have an FAA PMA certification for rebuilding aircraft alternators and starter motors. Every Prestolite and Autolite I have seen is factory soldered. The same with diesel big rig starters and alternators.
The best quality 60/40 I've used is ERSIN MULTICORE. Hardware store solder will. Not work.
Butt connectors: an uninsulated butt connector labeled PARALLEL BUTT CONNECTER is a favorite. The wires slide past each other than a crimp is made.
No seam, Terminals exist but they are pricey. Parallel butt connectors have no seam
No crimp heat-shrink terminals with solder just about mandates use of a electric heat shrink gun. They're inexpensive at Harbor Freight.
The above terminals do not use regular 60/40 electronics solder. A third metal card Bismuth is added and it reduces needed to melt temperature by some forty degrees.
I just purchased a box of no crimp heat shrink butts for 26-24 wire. The insulator is transparent clear.
I hope this helps someone and at least, is entertaining.
