garyemunson wrote:
Over the decades I've had to replace 2 cooling units. Both were in RVs I bought used so I suspect they were not operated correctly in the past. Since I've done them myself (pretty easy as they were older, smaller fridges), it was far cheaper than replacing the entire fridge. At this point, you should take stock of how you use your RV. If you always go to RV parks wth hookups (nothing wrong with that, lots of people prefer the comforts provided!) it's time to switch to a residential type fridge. Cheaper than repairing yours even if you do all the work yourself. If you boondock at all or go to state/national campgrounds without hookups, gas fridges are still king. Switching to a residential in those cases usually involves more batteries and an inverter upgrade so you end up spending the same or more. As said above, operating out of level can make fridges run hotter outside increasing the risk of springing a leak from the repeated flexing of the steel from the greater temperature swings. You don't have to be spot on level, what happens occurs on a "sliding scale", the more out of level, the hotter the coils run. Just do your best to get the coach not too far off level and you will be OK. I've seen the obsessed using a 3' level feverishly adding/subtracting blocks to get their rig perfect. Not necessary. Also, if you live in a humid climate, leaving the RV plugged in and the fridge on electric will keep the outside coils hot and lessen chance of them rusting out at one of their welds.
https://rvcoolingunit.com/Dometic-Cooling-Units-remanufactured-C4380.aspx?sid=298
I found my unit on their website:
https://rvcoolingunit.com/DM2652-Dometic-Cooling-Unit-606a-626a-P5536108.aspx
So you think this is easy enough to replace on my own? I just emailed them to ask for installation instructions.
Also, how does this system differ from the Dometic system?
