Refer troubleshooting

So I took it home and hooked it up to the house AC. No problems. We are currently at a CG right now. Last night I happen to watch my wife open the fridge door. The on/off button is right beside the latch. She ended up hitting that button while opening the fridge. She happen to be the one who reported the problem the last time we were camping.

I highly suspect she was the cause of this problem. I do appreciate you guys taking the time to help out.

Gillkid wrote:
I charged the battery a couple days before we left. I haven't checked water levels. The battery is only a year old

I leveled and switched to LP at the same time. Not sure I can absolutely conclude that leveling was the problem. Not saying it isn't, but I'm not entirely sure that's the cause just yet.

Let me see if I understand this correctly. The light inside the refrigerator is working and has always worked. The power to the fridge can fail and the light can still work? Everything else is still running on AC.

12V DC powers your fridge controls.
120VAC powers the electric element only

Must have 12V DC for fridge to operate......either from converter when using shore power (120V AC converted to 12V DC) OR from battery when not using shore power (12V DC from battery instead of converter)

If you lose AC shore power..........nothing using 120V AC power will work BUT all 12V DC items will cause of battery
(With 120V AC converter supplies 12V DC and charges battery)

Gillkid wrote:
I charged the battery a couple days before we left. I haven't checked water levels. The battery is only a year old

I leveled and switched to LP at the same time. Not sure I can absolutely conclude that leveling was the problem. Not saying it isn't, but I'm not entirely sure that's the cause just yet.

Let me see if I understand this correctly. The light inside the refrigerator is working and has always worked. The power to the fridge can fail and the light can still work? Everything else is still running on AC.

You can have loss of AC power to the fridge and the light can still be working. The interior light is powered by your 12V system, as is the control board.

A hand-held multimeter is a good tool to have for working on RV electrical. Harbor Freight sells them for less than $10 or sometimes, gives them away at sale events. I'd suggest you have one when travelling.

I charged the battery a couple days before we left. I haven't checked water levels. The battery is only a year old

I leveled and switched to LP at the same time. Not sure I can absolutely conclude that leveling was the problem. Not saying it isn't, but I'm not entirely sure that's the cause just yet.

Let me see if I understand this correctly. The light inside the refrigerator is working and has always worked. The power to the fridge can fail and the light can still work? Everything else is still running on AC.

I checked the level and it was slightly off. I fixed that. Bingo. One persons perception of slightly off level off can vary drastically. I think this was root of initial problem. He resolved off level and its functioning now.

is your battery low ? even on 120v you need a good 12v source.

Gillkid wrote:
So the lights in the refrigerator are 12v? If I'm hooked up to AC, the battery won't power anything, correct? The light in the fridge were still working when I was hooked up to AC.

12V DC powers the light inside, the controls, the circuit board....

Without 12V DC the fridge will not work...period

Have you checked that fridge is getting 120V AC Power?

Remove lower outside vent cover....unplug fridge power cord from outlet.
Test outlet for AC Power (voltmeter or plug something into it).
If no AC power then check AC Panel for a tripped circuit breaker OR check the GFCI outlets in kitchen/bathroom and see of one needs reset.

If you have AC Power at outlet than problem is either element bad, bad AC fuse inside fridge control module or bad circuit board

So the lights in the refrigerator are 12v? If I'm hooked up to AC, the battery won't power anything, correct? The light in the fridge were still working when I was hooked up to AC.

The lights are 12V. It takes a while for the refer section to get cold.

That is correct.