refridge bit the dust.....

Oasisbob wrote:
Well whle going to a residential unit is a cheap fix consider how it will effect your resale value? Also when traveling what then? How will you keep the door closed? You may already have these figured.

Now that is the typical knee slapping funny remark I expect.

So, in a nut shell who cares if you have to sell the trailer/RV for a bit less? You SPENT LESS TO MAKE THE TRAILER USABLE by replacing a non functional RV fridge with a WORKING residential fridge.

If you sold a RV with a non functional RV fridge the RV will be worth less anyway.

The RV is not really usable with a non working fridge so putting a WORKING residential fridge in the RV is not going to "harm" the resale value over what a broken RV fridge would do.

The residential fridge COST LESS THAN A RV FRIDGE and as long as you don't do something stupid the mod is 100% REVERSIBLE if the next owner really wants a RV fridge.

When traveling you have two options, travel without it running (fridge can easily go 24hrs without power if you don't open the doors much) OR do like I did, install an inverter.

My Inverter with one pair of GC batteries can easily go 24hrs before I need to recharge the batteries.

While traveling the tow vehicle charge line helps to reduce the overall discharge of the batteries.

As far as keeping the doors shut.. Plenty of solutions, some use a bungee cord strap across the doors, some use velcro..

Myself I found a neat slide latch which fits between the fridge and freezer doors.. The latch blocks a nut I screwed into the bottom of the freezer door and the top of the fridge door when traveling..

When stopped, I can easily slide the latch and the doors are no longer locked shut..

Here is some diagrams of my "latch"..

latch view 1



Latch view 2



Latch view 3



Latch view 4