My truck camper has a 3-way refrigerator. Works fantastic on propane and 120v....but on 12v it has a hard time staying below 40 degrees.The factory wire feeding it 12v is about 14g or 16g. Would running it directly from the battery (10' wire run length) with a #10 wire increase its performance?

It's likely not three way, just two. Verify that first.12vdc is usually used only to run the control panel.

It is three way....The switch on the front offers 12V / 120VAC / GasI just found this article:Refrigerator: The 3-way refrigerator in most RV’s like the Oliver can run off of 12V DC, 120V AC, or propane. While running off of DC, the Oliver’s refrigerator requires a massive 15 amps of current (contrast that with the less than 2 amps required with 120V AC). To handle a 15 amp load, the refrigerator specifies 10 AWG DC wiring and maximum wire length of 20 feet.This heavy current draw is why you should never leave a 3-way refrigerator running on DC power while stopped. The fridge can drain your trailer battery in just a matter of a few hours – and if your tow vehicle lacks a battery isolator circuit you could find that battery dead as well after a long lunch!Located here:http://www.technomadia.com/2008/06/rv-solar-electric-wiring-issues/Guess I need to do some rewiring!

Rbertalotto wrote:It is three way....The switch on the front offers 12V / 120VAC / GasI just found this article:Refrigerator: The 3-way refrigerator in most RV’s like the Oliver can run off of 12V DC, 120V AC, or propane. While running off of DC, the Oliver’s refrigerator requires a massive 15 amps of current (contrast that with the less than 2 amps required with 120V AC). To handle a 15 amp load, the refrigerator specifies 10 AWG DC wiring and maximum wire length of 20 feet.This heavy current draw is why you should never leave a 3-way refrigerator running on DC power while stopped. The fridge can drain your trailer battery in just a matter of a few hours – and if your tow vehicle lacks a battery isolator circuit you could find that battery dead as well after a long lunch!Located here:http://www.technomadia.com/2008/06/rv-solar-electric-wiring-issues/Guess I need to do some rewiring!ok. So you're sure of your battery?

The 12 volt option is just to *keep* the unit cold- it isn't normally used except in transit, and after the unit is already cold.Small models might have close to a full wattage 12 volt heater, but usually it is de-rated a bit.

Like Chris Bryant said, its really too keep food cool while driving. Using while dry camping will rapidly drain your battery.Changing from 16ga to 10ga will decrease the voltage drop about 1V; I doubt this will make a significant difference in operation.Regards,Doug

Refrigerator 12V wire size | Good Sam Community

doughere
Explorer
May 28, 2015
Like Chris Bryant said, its really too keep food cool while driving. Using while dry camping will rapidly drain your battery.

Changing from 16ga to 10ga will decrease the voltage drop about 1V; I doubt this will make a significant difference in operation.

Regards,
Doug
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
May 28, 2015
The 12 volt option is just to *keep* the unit cold- it isn't normally used except in transit, and after the unit is already cold.
Small models might have close to a full wattage 12 volt heater, but usually it is de-rated a bit.
JPeyton
Explorer
May 28, 2015
Rbertalotto wrote:
It is three way....The switch on the front offers 12V / 120VAC / Gas

I just found this article:

Refrigerator: The 3-way refrigerator in most RV’s like the Oliver can run off of 12V DC, 120V AC, or propane. While running off of DC, the Oliver’s refrigerator requires a massive 15 amps of current (contrast that with the less than 2 amps required with 120V AC). To handle a 15 amp load, the refrigerator specifies 10 AWG DC wiring and maximum wire length of 20 feet.
This heavy current draw is why you should never leave a 3-way refrigerator running on DC power while stopped. The fridge can drain your trailer battery in just a matter of a few hours – and if your tow vehicle lacks a battery isolator circuit you could find that battery dead as well after a long lunch!

Located here:
http://www.technomadia.com/2008/06/rv-solar-electric-wiring-issues/

Guess I need to do some rewiring!

ok. So you're sure of your battery?
Rbertalotto
Explorer
May 28, 2015
It is three way....The switch on the front offers 12V / 120VAC / Gas

I just found this article:

Refrigerator: The 3-way refrigerator in most RV’s like the Oliver can run off of 12V DC, 120V AC, or propane. While running off of DC, the Oliver’s refrigerator requires a massive 15 amps of current (contrast that with the less than 2 amps required with 120V AC). To handle a 15 amp load, the refrigerator specifies 10 AWG DC wiring and maximum wire length of 20 feet.
This heavy current draw is why you should never leave a 3-way refrigerator running on DC power while stopped. The fridge can drain your trailer battery in just a matter of a few hours – and if your tow vehicle lacks a battery isolator circuit you could find that battery dead as well after a long lunch!

Located here:
http://www.technomadia.com/2008/06/rv-solar-electric-wiring-issues/

Guess I need to do some rewiring!
JPeyton
Explorer
May 28, 2015
It's likely not three way, just two. Verify that first.

12vdc is usually used only to run the control panel.

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