Refrigerator Fan
I did a search and don't see anything on this. I'm looking at battery operated frig fans like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L22DMYR/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3DZHE7L946MNL&psc=1 ...
Forum Discussion
I have a 1.8 cubic foot 12vDC compressor fridge.
I put a small low cfm, low amp draw 40MM computer fan inside of it.
With the fan disconnected I need a setting of 4( of 7) to maintain sub 41F everywhere in the fridge, and the floor will be 27f or well below depending on the time of the previous door opening and the contents.
With the fan on I use a setting of 2.2 to maintain 32.5f +/- 1.5f everywhere inside the fridge.
The fan does add a small heat load to the fridge which then must be removed which is why I searched the lowest amp draw fan I could find. The internal fan will not make it use less power overall, but it will even out the internal temperatures greatly, and will help cool down warm items placed withing much faster, something compressor fridges do many times better than absorption fridges to begin with.
As far as condenser ventilation, on exterior of fridge, this is also very important, and my condenser, which was designed to have a 120MM computer fan mounted to it, is bathed in the coolest possible ambient air that has no chance of being recycled across the condenser as the
filtered air, pulled from the floor, is pushed through the condenser, across conpressor and compressor controller and out of the vehicle. or in winter into an adjacent compartment.
I've No issues maintaining 32.5f or less no matter the ambinet temps, and I still have more than half the dial to turn if I want it colder.
I wired my 40mmx20mm 12v interior fan to the interior light before the magnetic reed switch. It is a discontinued Sunon Maglev rated at ~6.2 CFM and 0.03 amps, and I leave it running continuously and it has been doing so since October 2012.
I'd use a larger internal fan if I had a larger fridge, but there is no need to go nutty on the CFM rating.
The Noctua NF-F12 is 120Mm x 25mm fan and moves 53CFM for 0.05 amps of draw, and is very good at pushing air through restrictions, like the fins on an absorption fridge, but that much CFM is likely overkill for an 8 cubic foot fridge.
The most expensive 12v computer fan is in the 25$ range, and they come in many many sizes, from 25mm to 230MM, they also come in 5v and 24v versions, but the options are less numerous.
If you don't want to tap into any internal wiring you could hook a 5v fan to 2 D size batteries in series for ~3.2v. Since fans draw so little juice you can also run 26 gauge wires through the door seal.
I don't know just how effective internal air circulation is inside Absorption fridges, but I do know it keeps ice from clogging the fins directly in the path of the fan's flow, and it works great in my compressor fridge to cool down items placed within faster, and keep an even temperature across the whole interior, and I'd not willingly disconnect it no matter what.
I put a small low cfm, low amp draw 40MM computer fan inside of it.
With the fan disconnected I need a setting of 4( of 7) to maintain sub 41F everywhere in the fridge, and the floor will be 27f or well below depending on the time of the previous door opening and the contents.
With the fan on I use a setting of 2.2 to maintain 32.5f +/- 1.5f everywhere inside the fridge.
The fan does add a small heat load to the fridge which then must be removed which is why I searched the lowest amp draw fan I could find. The internal fan will not make it use less power overall, but it will even out the internal temperatures greatly, and will help cool down warm items placed withing much faster, something compressor fridges do many times better than absorption fridges to begin with.
As far as condenser ventilation, on exterior of fridge, this is also very important, and my condenser, which was designed to have a 120MM computer fan mounted to it, is bathed in the coolest possible ambient air that has no chance of being recycled across the condenser as the
filtered air, pulled from the floor, is pushed through the condenser, across conpressor and compressor controller and out of the vehicle. or in winter into an adjacent compartment.
I've No issues maintaining 32.5f or less no matter the ambinet temps, and I still have more than half the dial to turn if I want it colder.
I wired my 40mmx20mm 12v interior fan to the interior light before the magnetic reed switch. It is a discontinued Sunon Maglev rated at ~6.2 CFM and 0.03 amps, and I leave it running continuously and it has been doing so since October 2012.
I'd use a larger internal fan if I had a larger fridge, but there is no need to go nutty on the CFM rating.
The Noctua NF-F12 is 120Mm x 25mm fan and moves 53CFM for 0.05 amps of draw, and is very good at pushing air through restrictions, like the fins on an absorption fridge, but that much CFM is likely overkill for an 8 cubic foot fridge.
The most expensive 12v computer fan is in the 25$ range, and they come in many many sizes, from 25mm to 230MM, they also come in 5v and 24v versions, but the options are less numerous.
If you don't want to tap into any internal wiring you could hook a 5v fan to 2 D size batteries in series for ~3.2v. Since fans draw so little juice you can also run 26 gauge wires through the door seal.
I don't know just how effective internal air circulation is inside Absorption fridges, but I do know it keeps ice from clogging the fins directly in the path of the fan's flow, and it works great in my compressor fridge to cool down items placed within faster, and keep an even temperature across the whole interior, and I'd not willingly disconnect it no matter what.
