Refrigerator, how does it work?
Hi there, I just got a camper and dont know too much about it. I turned on the refrigerator on in Automatic and it looks like picture 1 (light indicator on Gas) and it makes a clicking sound for a...
Forum Discussion
The RV type fridge, properly called an absorption cooling unit, has basically 3 parts. One is working fine, That is known as The box (the case, door and such so I won't say more about it.
The second is the cooling unit this is a sealed collection of things including a tank or two, coils, pipes, and all that plumbing you see when you open the outside compartment or in some cases move panels inside, it also includes the metal fins inside the box.. (those never fail either, the fins that is, the plumbing .. Can fail)
And finally we have one or more heat sources (I group these into one group, heat source).
Heat causes some chemicals (Ammonia, water and such) inside the plumbing to separate, due to the nature of the beast they take, different routes to get back to the INSIDE coils (Where the fins are) and in the process pass through a heat exchanger shedding most of the heat that was added, Now cooled they come together in what is called an endothermic reaction (Meaning they get COLD and absorb heat). Then as they absorb heat they get warm again, now they flow back to the boiler where they get so hot they part company and it all starts over again.
NOW the good news.. You don't need to know all that.. Since the check light is coming on...... Your problem is the heat source.. Now this comes in 3 types..
Again you do not need to know about the 120 volt heat element cause the check light does not check that
Likewise you very likely do not even have a 12 volt heat element, and the check light does not check that.
What you need to worry about is the PROPANE heat source cause that is the one the check light checks. And it is not working.
I posted a trouble shoot above. but the first step is routine maintenance, You can do this yourself or if you are less than comfortable working with propane, Have a technician do it and .. If possible, observe and ask him or her to explain what they are doing.
Routine maintenance involves cleaning the burner area, inspecting the orifice and cleaning if needed, checking the spark gap on the spark points, and cleaning the flu. All easily done the last needs a ladder the rest simple tools. but as I said, if you are not comfortable, get a pro to show you how.
IF this does not fix it (I'd say about 50/50) then you may have other problems.. I already covered making sure you have propane (Do this first in fact) and the technician can easily check the solenoid valve and finally the control board.
IF you need a new control board, ask the technician about Dinosaur boards.. Very high quality, and at worst competitive prices (At best.. Well the one I got for my furnace set me back 108, the OEM was 250,
But the first step is maintenance.. No need for an "Amish Cooling Unit" since that is not your problem.
Once the heat source is working (Try it on electric to see if it cools) then we test the cooling unit, Plug in, turn on (electric) and come back in 24 hours.
The second is the cooling unit this is a sealed collection of things including a tank or two, coils, pipes, and all that plumbing you see when you open the outside compartment or in some cases move panels inside, it also includes the metal fins inside the box.. (those never fail either, the fins that is, the plumbing .. Can fail)
And finally we have one or more heat sources (I group these into one group, heat source).
Heat causes some chemicals (Ammonia, water and such) inside the plumbing to separate, due to the nature of the beast they take, different routes to get back to the INSIDE coils (Where the fins are) and in the process pass through a heat exchanger shedding most of the heat that was added, Now cooled they come together in what is called an endothermic reaction (Meaning they get COLD and absorb heat). Then as they absorb heat they get warm again, now they flow back to the boiler where they get so hot they part company and it all starts over again.
NOW the good news.. You don't need to know all that.. Since the check light is coming on...... Your problem is the heat source.. Now this comes in 3 types..
Again you do not need to know about the 120 volt heat element cause the check light does not check that
Likewise you very likely do not even have a 12 volt heat element, and the check light does not check that.
What you need to worry about is the PROPANE heat source cause that is the one the check light checks. And it is not working.
I posted a trouble shoot above. but the first step is routine maintenance, You can do this yourself or if you are less than comfortable working with propane, Have a technician do it and .. If possible, observe and ask him or her to explain what they are doing.
Routine maintenance involves cleaning the burner area, inspecting the orifice and cleaning if needed, checking the spark gap on the spark points, and cleaning the flu. All easily done the last needs a ladder the rest simple tools. but as I said, if you are not comfortable, get a pro to show you how.
IF this does not fix it (I'd say about 50/50) then you may have other problems.. I already covered making sure you have propane (Do this first in fact) and the technician can easily check the solenoid valve and finally the control board.
IF you need a new control board, ask the technician about Dinosaur boards.. Very high quality, and at worst competitive prices (At best.. Well the one I got for my furnace set me back 108, the OEM was 250,
But the first step is maintenance.. No need for an "Amish Cooling Unit" since that is not your problem.
Once the heat source is working (Try it on electric to see if it cools) then we test the cooling unit, Plug in, turn on (electric) and come back in 24 hours.
