refrigerator problem

Basically, the only thing that would cause that is a bad heating element. If a fuse or the outlet was bad, it would simply stay on l.p. operation.
While I have heard of those boards going bad in that manner (a bad relay, detecting AC power but not energizing the heater), it's pretty rare.

Any fuses on the circuit board should be removed and first of all visually inspected. Even if they appear to be OK you should still test for continuity with an ohm meter. Makes sure contacts are clean.

If you determine you need a replacement circuit board, be sure to check the prices on Amazon. Just last week I had to order 2 refrig boards and the price on Amazon was the best I could find. They do handle Dinosaur Electronics.

Hope you find this info of use.

There is a 120 volt fuse on the circuit board inside the outside access.
Check the voltage output from circuit board as previously suggested.
Last resort, sort of! Disconnect 120 volts, remove circuit board look at the back for a large black burnt area. If present, order the correct Dinosaur Electronics replacement circuit board.

IF you have at least 110 volts, the heat element will work. I have NEVER seen a refer 120 element "partially work". They either work or they do NOT. The simplest test with no tools is to start with the refer off and rear burner area cold. If you have 120 to the control board, start the refer on 120. If after 20 minutes the burner flue is still cold and not hot to the touch, you either have a bad element or the FUSE for the element on the board is blown. Usually, IF the fuse is blown it was caused by a defective 120 element. Doug

Click here for a download user manual that looks like it applies to your refrig.

I quickly reviewed the manual and it seems page 12 has some tests that you can conduct.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the suggestions. Sounds simple enough.

From: Dometic Refrigerator Service Tips
Unplug from AC outlet
Remove the heater leads from the lower circuit board and measure for proper resistance across the
two leads.
You should obtain the following readings, +/- lo%:
WATTS VOLTS OHMS
RM2612 295 120 48
RM2652 325 120 44
RM2812 325 120 44
RM2852 325 120 44

ScottG wrote:
If it (the heating element) does get hot then it is most likely the control board.

Just because it gets hot does not mean it is getting hot enough. The only way to know for sure is to take a current (amp) reading and measure the voltage where the fridge is plugged into. Multiply the 2 numbers together and you will have the wattage of the heating element. If it is less than say 325 watts +/- 10% (depending on the fridge you have) than it is not getting hot enough to heat the ammonia and hydrogen to the proper temperature and the fridge is not going to cool properly on AC, but will on propane.

Make sure 12VDC is present.
Heater element could be burned out. FLip it over to electric and after 20 minutes or so, feel the heater area for heat. If it's cool then it may be shot.
You'll need to disconnect its leads and connect them strait to an outlet to see if it gets hot. If not then the heater is shot.
If it does get hot then it is most likely the control board.