Refrigerator problem

Lbjr75 wrote:
Thanks for all the feedback; much appreciated. To answer the questions raised 1) the unit hasn’t been running off level 2) I believe it is the original refrigerator and the rv is a 1994 model Fleetwood Southwind 3) shutdown occurs running electrical or propane 4) when the unit first stops running, the “check” light on the indicator lights near the top of the unit inside goes on - then awhile later the lights dim and the noise starts up. I know the unit isn’t working first when the “check” light goes on, then hearing the noise. The noise is definitely coming from the lower circuit board in the outside compartment. Thanks again for your time.

1994 model---That helps. Take the black cover off the rear control module. IF the epoxy where the circuits are mounted is yelloe/Beige, the ONLY fix is to replace the control module and install a ground loop kit. Dometic has those 2 parts. IF the epoxy is greenish, then the original control module has been replaced and more diag needed. But, even a newer control module may be bad. The original Dometic Control modules from the early 90's to about 1998 had intermittant failure problems with the check light being the indicator. Made no difference if on 120 or LP gas. Doug

Thanks for all the feedback; much appreciated. To answer the questions raised 1) the unit hasn’t been running off level 2) I believe it is the original refrigerator and the rv is a 1994 model Fleetwood Southwind 3) shutdown occurs running electrical or propane 4) when the unit first stops running, the “check” light on the indicator lights near the top of the unit inside goes on - then awhile later the lights dim and the noise starts up. I know the unit isn’t working first when the “check” light goes on, then hearing the noise. The noise is definitely coming from the lower circuit board in the outside compartment. Thanks again for your time.

As others mentioned, when it shuts down you need to get a 12 volt reading at the Positive wire on the back of the refer. Odds are, you are going dead on 12 volts. Doug

rockhillmanor wrote:
When mine would start and then shut down it was because of low voltage.

The "fridge thermostat runs off of DC". So a plugged into AC power fridge 'will' come on but when it reaches it's set temp and shuts off the thermostat can not turn it back on because of low DC voltage.

I battled that problem with 3 different repair guys until the 4th one came into my RV and walked straight back to my converter to test it. Converter was shot and frying the batteries.

I.E low voltage to the thermostat in fridge and air conditioning. Allowing them both to come on but when they hit the temp set on the thermostat they would shut off and not be able to come back on.

Newer RV's may not have this problem. Because (i think)they have inverters factory installed in them. But most older RV's still need DC power to run the thermostats in fridge's and air conditioners.

Yes and No. It takes 12 volts to operate the CONTROL system(control boards are 12 volt) for the Refers and Roof AC units. NOT just the Tstat. Some Roof AC units require NO 12 volts to operate, those will have roof mounted controls. Doug

When mine would start and then shut down it was because of low voltage.

The "fridge thermostat runs off of DC". So a plugged into AC power fridge 'will' come on but when it reaches it's set temp and shuts off the thermostat can not turn it back on because of low DC voltage.

I battled that problem with 3 different repair guys until the 4th one came into my RV and walked straight back to my converter to test it. Converter was shot and frying the batteries.

I.E low voltage to the thermostat in fridge and air conditioning. Allowing them both to come on but when they hit the temp set on the thermostat they would shut off and not be able to come back on.

Newer RV's may not have this problem. Because (i think)they have inverters factory installed in them. But most older RV's still need DC power to run the thermostats in fridge's and air conditioners.

Please clarify the following questions:

1) On electric or propane fridge does the same shutdown after 2 hours?

2) When fridge shutsdown do you still have upper panel display/lights?

3) What indicates that fridge has shutdown?


As for 'High Temp Limit'...unless a 'recall' was done and stack sensor added there is NO high temp limit switch which shutsdown fridge

Moved from General RVing

Parts breakdownIt is possible that the reignitor is failing.

High temp limit is shutting it down. We need more info like how old is it, have you operated it out of level, etc, etc...

Sounds to me like you have a blockage but with no info, any ideas are a crapshoot.

Same reason as posted on 'Other' forum
That old black box circuit board

And you did mean circuit board when you stated controller.....