Refrigerator Repair/Replacement

If you are ever interested in camping without electrical hookups, consider getting a couple of the Engel-type 12 V compressor fridges. They use very very little electricity. I would get a large unit to use as a refrigerator, and a smaller one to use as a freezer. You just set the temp where you want it.

There are several brands of this type refrigerator. They are not cheap, but are well-loved by those who use them, and are very durable. No worries about keeping it level.

I have a working Dometic french door that came out of my Cedar Creek.

If interested PM me.


C.B.

There was no ammonia smell or yellow residue. Been through that with my 34' gasser. Definitely will ask the tech to find out what is wrong, then go from there.

GM

Most RV refer problems do not cause a complete removal and replacement. Usually a control board or electric element or gas valve goes bad long before the entire cooling unit needs replacing.

One thing my brothers rig did, that made him think he needed a new refer...he parked on a steep hill and forgot to turn off the refer. A couple weeks later he noticed that it was on, and not cooling. After parking it on a flat area, I used a rubber mallet to create vibration in the coils. Which ultimately broke up the chemical plug that had formed inside the tubing from being off level. Years later and it still works fine.

Did you smell ammonia inside the refer/freezer? Do you see yellow residue outside on the coils? Those are definite signs that you need a whole new refer coil set (not necessarily a whole new refer). Anything other than that you should see what the tech says.

PS It's best to go to a shop saying 'find out what's wrong please' rather than 'I think I need a new refer'.

What sort of refrigerator do you have with a replacement cost of $3000-$4000? Most of the reasonable sized RV refrigerators are in the range of $1500 or less. If you do nothing but sit in RV parks, I guess a domestic refrigerator would be OK. You might want to think about resale value. I certainly would never consider an RV that absolutely required electrical hook ups at all times.

Make your decision based on how you camp. If you are always in a full hookup campground, go with residential. If you ever 'boondock' a gas fridge is your ace in the hole. With the residential, you will also need to add a big enough inverter to run the fridge when you are going down the road. If your batteries are not 100%, they will need to be replaced. Your coach being a 2006, it should have a big enough alternator to handle the load. Lots of people with older coaches fail to get that memo (the latest Ford F-53 chassis come with 175 Amp ones). Myself, I've always had gas units and even though now the majority of our camping is FHU, we like the ability to be able to camp anywhere for a day or two without worrying about running the generator.

Thought so. Don't see it as an overly complicated matter.
Thanks for your reply.

GM

Plenty of people have done this. Just Google .