Refrigerator Won't Cool Below 40 Degrees
A couple of weeks ago my neighbor purchased an older RV with a Dometic RM1350 refrigerator that holds the refrigerator temperature at 40 degrees as verified by a number of different thermometers. I'm ...
Forum Discussion
Thank you Old-Biscuit for providing the three corrections.
In reply to your comments:
a) The two outside fans seem to be working properly because they cycle on and off as the temperature of the condenser fins changes in response to the heaters turning on and off
b) My neighbor had borrowed a number of thermometers from other neighbors---at one time he had 5 different thermometers in there! I had him fill a small plastic bottle with water and poke a hole in the cap through which he inserted the shaft of a small stem thermometer, and this we placed on the top shelf of the refrigerator under the thermistor. Prior to doing this we checked the accuracy of that thermometer by placing its stem in a beaker full of ice cold water, ensuring it read close to 32 degrees.
c) Regarding the "automatic cooling unit cycling system": I had read about that in the manual and concluded it shouldn't be a factor at this point in time because we've turned the refrigerator off a number of times in the last couple of days to test various components, and that cycle isn't initiated until 60 hours after the refer is turned on
d) This afternoon I asked him to switch the refer to LP and run it that way for 24 hours. I'll check back with him tomorrow afternoon and report back what I find.
e) Regarding air leaks: One of the freezer doors isn't sealing properly as evidenced by the dollar bill test, but at this point I don't think it is the main culprit. I did not look closely at the drip tray drain tube---I'll try to remember to do that tomorrow---but I do recall seeing the check valve.
f) I did not perform the upper display panel tests, but I'll take a look tomorrow to see how long the refrigerator doors would need to be open to do so---we're trying to keep the doors closed as much as possible because he needs to keep the food as cold as possible.
In reply to your comments:
a) The two outside fans seem to be working properly because they cycle on and off as the temperature of the condenser fins changes in response to the heaters turning on and off
b) My neighbor had borrowed a number of thermometers from other neighbors---at one time he had 5 different thermometers in there! I had him fill a small plastic bottle with water and poke a hole in the cap through which he inserted the shaft of a small stem thermometer, and this we placed on the top shelf of the refrigerator under the thermistor. Prior to doing this we checked the accuracy of that thermometer by placing its stem in a beaker full of ice cold water, ensuring it read close to 32 degrees.
c) Regarding the "automatic cooling unit cycling system": I had read about that in the manual and concluded it shouldn't be a factor at this point in time because we've turned the refrigerator off a number of times in the last couple of days to test various components, and that cycle isn't initiated until 60 hours after the refer is turned on
d) This afternoon I asked him to switch the refer to LP and run it that way for 24 hours. I'll check back with him tomorrow afternoon and report back what I find.
e) Regarding air leaks: One of the freezer doors isn't sealing properly as evidenced by the dollar bill test, but at this point I don't think it is the main culprit. I did not look closely at the drip tray drain tube---I'll try to remember to do that tomorrow---but I do recall seeing the check valve.
f) I did not perform the upper display panel tests, but I'll take a look tomorrow to see how long the refrigerator doors would need to be open to do so---we're trying to keep the doors closed as much as possible because he needs to keep the food as cold as possible.
