Forum Discussion
BFL13
Jun 23, 2021Explorer II
Got access to Renogy input terminals and re-did the test for the part in question.
With the 7-pin wiring, and the ammeter inserted. With the batts full, load was created by MW on inverter to allow the Renogy to run its full amps
Input--Truck 13.99v, ammeter 10.61v, Renogy input 9.65v--30 amps draw
output about 16 amps (tapering) Renogy output 12.59v, Trimetric 12.4v
With jumper cables from truck batt to ammeter (most of the way to Renogy) using both pos and neg sides--- Load now straight battery recharge-inverter off.
Truck 13.59v,ammeter 13.21v, Renogy input 12.2v, 30 amp draw
Renogy Output 14.38v, Trimetric 14.2v, 19.1a (assumed 20a from Renogy)
Input watts 12.2 x 30 = 366w Output watts 14.38 x 20 = 288w
288/366 = 78.7%
So with 12.2 volts input with fatter wire still have 30 amp draw. Most of the loss from truck to Renogy is from the ammeter to the Renogy as expected with still using the 7-pin for that last part in the camper.
I have to get that part by-passed to have input voltage in the 13s such as would be the case with normal truck input and a small drop from engine batt voltage.
Everyone will still want to know if the input voltage is in the 13s, will the draw still be 30 amps. I still need to insert that ammeter which must have some of that resistance, but we'll see what I can do there.
With the 7-pin wiring, and the ammeter inserted. With the batts full, load was created by MW on inverter to allow the Renogy to run its full amps
Input--Truck 13.99v, ammeter 10.61v, Renogy input 9.65v--30 amps draw
output about 16 amps (tapering) Renogy output 12.59v, Trimetric 12.4v
With jumper cables from truck batt to ammeter (most of the way to Renogy) using both pos and neg sides--- Load now straight battery recharge-inverter off.
Truck 13.59v,ammeter 13.21v, Renogy input 12.2v, 30 amp draw
Renogy Output 14.38v, Trimetric 14.2v, 19.1a (assumed 20a from Renogy)
Input watts 12.2 x 30 = 366w Output watts 14.38 x 20 = 288w
288/366 = 78.7%
So with 12.2 volts input with fatter wire still have 30 amp draw. Most of the loss from truck to Renogy is from the ammeter to the Renogy as expected with still using the 7-pin for that last part in the camper.
I have to get that part by-passed to have input voltage in the 13s such as would be the case with normal truck input and a small drop from engine batt voltage.
Everyone will still want to know if the input voltage is in the 13s, will the draw still be 30 amps. I still need to insert that ammeter which must have some of that resistance, but we'll see what I can do there.
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