Renogy DC-DC Test Results-UPDATE 4 (Better!)
Updates 23 June--new test with Renogy input exposed for voltage readings Update 25 June more readings Update 4 - 27 June-- fewer amps with fat wire were noted this time! ----- I have the 20 ampe...
Forum Discussion
Yes, a TT or 5er has a steel bottom frame with wood or al structure on that covered by al skin or fibreglass. So they have a steel bottom frame that they use for "grounding" neg paths.
My camper is all wood with al skin and seems to use the al skin as a neg path. The jacks have the neg voltage too, so they must get that from the skin at the corners where they are attached.
A trailer is connected to the truck via 7-pin and also by the hitch (steel), but the camper only has the 7-pin (6 used-no brakes).
My problem is getting a good wire connection from the truck battery back to the Renogy input terminals that I can disconnect like I can with the 7-pin to take the camper off the truck. Various ways like with Anderson plugs available.
I can go Renogy outpu to camper batts direct (via Trimetric shunt) without much voltage drop, so that part is easy.
I am not clear on what is really needed for the Renogy to have the same "ground" for where the truck battery is "neg grounded" to its frame while the camper battery is "neg grounded" to its "frame" (skin?).
That part is easy in a motor home where the engine and house batts use the same frame.
Anyway, I need to do some more work on my set-up to at least get the Renogy input good enough to allow its output to stay at 20 amps without tapering like it did in the OP the way I have it set up now.
I will try a few things and report back.
My camper is all wood with al skin and seems to use the al skin as a neg path. The jacks have the neg voltage too, so they must get that from the skin at the corners where they are attached.
A trailer is connected to the truck via 7-pin and also by the hitch (steel), but the camper only has the 7-pin (6 used-no brakes).
My problem is getting a good wire connection from the truck battery back to the Renogy input terminals that I can disconnect like I can with the 7-pin to take the camper off the truck. Various ways like with Anderson plugs available.
I can go Renogy outpu to camper batts direct (via Trimetric shunt) without much voltage drop, so that part is easy.
I am not clear on what is really needed for the Renogy to have the same "ground" for where the truck battery is "neg grounded" to its frame while the camper battery is "neg grounded" to its "frame" (skin?).
That part is easy in a motor home where the engine and house batts use the same frame.
Anyway, I need to do some more work on my set-up to at least get the Renogy input good enough to allow its output to stay at 20 amps without tapering like it did in the OP the way I have it set up now.
I will try a few things and report back.
