For light switches, I would not hesitate to use most any switch that looks like it would fit physically and has the right electrical connections and has current ratings that look reasonable.
Many switches are only rated for AC operation as switching DC loads is rather a harder job for a switch (because the zero crossings of an AC waveform tend to break any arcing that might be occurring). It's not unheard of for AC switches to fail in DC use with the contacts being welded together and the switch stuck on. For a light switch, that's not a huge concern; the result would just be a light that's stuck on. For something that may be safety related or rather more damaging if the switch failed, say an engine kill switch, I'd be a little more selective.
