Forum Discussion
Carl_n_Susan
Apr 30, 2016Nomad II
Having just done this on a 2012 Montana, I can provide some tips to make your job easier and cleaner.
I changed the valve in mine in about 2 hours, not having ever done it before. Also I don't work fast - I am old and retired and don't have to anymore.
- The 2010 Montana has a dropped frame. This makes access to the valves easy. Just remove the screws at the rear edge of the dropped frame and a couple of feet along the sides. This will be enough to "roll" the rear edge of the coroplast forward to expose the valves.
- Do flush the black tank to minimize residual stuff and odors.
- Lower the front end of the RV (either park on a hill or drop the front jacks) to avoid having liquid exiting the tank when you remove the valve.
- As others have written, Montana (and others) build the sewer lines with no free space. Getting the valve out/in can be a challenge. The trick is to cut the sewer pipe after the "Y" where the black and grey tank meet. Remove about an inch of pipe. Stop by your favorite hardware store and pick up a No-Hub connector and two hose clamps. Slide the No-Hub all the way on the sewer pipe before you change the valve. That way you have room to extract the current valve and install the new one without crimping the seals. Then slide the No-Hub into place and tighten up the hose clamps.
I changed the valve in mine in about 2 hours, not having ever done it before. Also I don't work fast - I am old and retired and don't have to anymore.
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