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amdriven2liv's avatar
amdriven2liv
Explorer
Apr 27, 2016

Replacing black water cable valve

I have a slow leak from my black water tank valve. Local RV shop says $400+ to replace.

This is a 2010 Montana. I have done some looking around and have found many videos showing how to replace a valve, but, they have been all straight pull valves.

Anyone have a video of changing one of these out? Or suggestions? ( I did just put some vegetable oil in the tank yesterday to see if that trick would help) Valterra valve I believe.

Thanks
  • i've done the valve replacemnet on other RV's where its at the end of the pipe at the edge of the RV

    BUT a cable valve that is on ONE side of a Y so that black and gray are both, remote reach , is a really big PITA to try and replace

    it get less simple and more complicated with each new RV that comes along
    really bad when the valves are covered inside the belly of the TT

    just saying replace it, its only an HOUR, is well..NOT so simple any more
  • I replaced both the black and gray valves. No problem. Unscrew screws take out and insert new ones.

    I think it took me less than an hour and that included bleaching the heck and flushing out the black tank. I just didn't want to deal with ANY type of sewage or smell while I was working on it! :W

    Pick up the valve at any camping store or rv dealership parts store.

    There was a time that there were 2 types. Bristol and Valterra. So be sure you pick up the correct one for your RV.

    Also on mine there was a very small arrow molded on the valve itself. It is meant to tell you what direction the water flows so you put the valve in correctly. I didn't see that at first so that less than an hour installation 'included' putting one in and out twice so the arrow was pointing in the right direction! :B
  • I changed one on a previous trailer and I want to say it was a bear. On this trailer I had to cut an opening under the valve location. Getting the exact location was not easy. Removing the old valve was relatively painless but getting the pipes spread apart to install the new valve to get the seals to set right was extremely difficult. I had to redo the install three times before it didn't leak (i just filled the tank with water to test). I actually used the old bolts and nuts to spread the pipes far enough to slip it in place. I sewed the opening shut with wire ties. Hopefully, your install won't be as involved.
  • MR WIZARD, TWIST ON VALVE IS THE RIGHT ANSWER.

    I have had one for 3 years..
  • $400? Don't go there for anything again.

    I produced parts for a snack food company and used vegetable oil on them to prevent rust. Over time the spare parts would stick together so tightly that they were extremely difficult to pry apart. I would quit using vegetable oil, it might help in the short term but cause problems later.
  • Its the same valve/as the straight pull just with a outer piece that comes apart with 4 screws then unscrew the cable piece off reverse the process

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