Replacing RV fridge with Residential Fridge

JCat wrote:
My RV fridge has been dead for a week now.
The cooling unit is bad.

I was going to get a Dometic replacement, but the price is $3000 at camping world.

Today I was at Home depot and they had a nice 10 cu ft stainless fridge for $400 on sale, which will fit my current opening in my RV.

So basically I can buy 7 residential fridges for the price of 1 RV fridge, complete nonsense.

Anyway I have a couple of questions about the residential fridge.
1. How does it get secured to the RV during installation ?
2. How can I lock the doors when I travel down the road ?
3. How do I secure the items in the fridge from flying off the their shelves when traveling ? (tension bars)

Thanks for the help.

Howdy. Our experience.

1. We ran some carriage bolts through the bottom of the frame where the wheels are into the plywood below.

2. We use velcro to secure the doors together but I think door setup will be different on yours. Suggest a small snap on the top of the door to the top of the fridge. Lots of ways to do it.

3. We use the same compression bars we used on our old norcold. Only put them in place when we travel.

4. Re the power (as someone else mentioned). A 600 watt inverter with a 800 to thousand watt surge should do nicely. Recommend a sine wave inverter. Thus should work. http://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-GP-SW600-12-600-Watt-Inverter/dp/B00153CXR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417400353&sr=8-1&keywords=600+watt+gopower+sine+wave+inverter

5. If you don't dry camp the generator will work fine and the run time will be good for it. Having said that the fridge will stay cold for 5 or 6 hours at a time.

You will never regret going residential. Best change we ever made and yes we are dry campers. If you are going to dry camp though you will need to think about the inverter and solar approach. Good luck.