Recently, we made a decision to replace our Dometic NDR1062 rv fridge with a Haier 10.1cu, black in color. The less than optimal cooling performance, unreliability, and the possible potential for catching fire were some of the main reasons. It was checked to ensure that it was installed properly, cooling fans were installed and I even had the Amish coils installed in 2013. The straw that broke the camels back was when the Amish unit started leaking while we were about 150 miles from the IRV2 national rally last Sept. Fortunately, I carry a small dorm style fridge with us and was able to transfer stuff to it. We left the freezer closed and transferred its contents to another members fridge at the rally.1. The receptacle plug in the outside fridge compartment is one of the few that does not receive power when the our 2000w inverter/charger is on. For now, I want to know if the wire from the rear of the receptacle can be rerouted so it receives power when the inverter is on.2. For those that have replaced their rv fridges, (whether the big double doors or smaller single doors like the Haier), what type of trim did you use on the sides and across the top. Pics would be nice if you have them.

Norcold and Dometic are pushing us away from their industry and are too stupid to know it. They wont improve their technology and quality enough to even compete with the other choices we have. It's only a matter of time before RV manufacturers start putting Small resi fridges in all their lines because their customers request it. It would be cheaper for them too.Sorry - rant off.

JC2,If you run a small inverter directly off the batteries, then plug the fridge into that, you can run the fridge without the larger inverter sucking up so much power.Myself, anytime I'm away from the camper, or sleeping at night, the inverter is off. It's only on when absolutely necessary. Anything that needs to run continuously is wired directly to the batteries.

JC2 wrote:Recently, we made a decision to replace our Dometic NDR1062 rv fridge with a Haier 10.1cu, black in color. The less than optimal cooling performance, unreliability, and the possible potential for catching fire were some of the main reasons. It was checked to ensure that it was installed properly, cooling fans were installed and I even had the Amish coils installed in 2013. The straw that broke the camels back was when the Amish unit started leaking while we were about 150 miles from the IRV2 national rally last Sept. Fortunately, I carry a small dorm style fridge with us and was able to transfer stuff to it. We left the freezer closed and transferred its contents to another members fridge at the rally.1. The receptacle plug in the outside fridge compartment is one of the few that does not receive power when the our 2000w inverter/charger is on. For now, I want to know if the wire from the rear of the receptacle can be rerouted so it receives power when the inverter is on.2. For those that have replaced their rv fridges, (whether the big double doors or smaller single doors like the Haier), what type of trim did you use on the sides and across the top. Pics would be nice if you have them.I am using a Haier 10 cu ft fridge in my TT, I closed off the outside access and top vent and left an inch on both sides and a couple of inches on the top of the fridge open. This allows air inside the trailer to move around the fridge.You can use regular wood trim like you would use around a stick and bricks house to trim out door and windows to make a finished look.For the inverter, forget about the existing plug in, instead just run a new run of wire to a new outlet from your inverter.You could also buy a separate dedicated smaller inverter (1200W at a min) for the fridge. Smaller inverter will use a bit less battery.I used a Tripplite PV1250 for mine, it is MSW but it is DESIGNED for use with high inductance motor loads like a fridge compressor. It also has a power save feature which turns off the inverter when no AC load is present. This feature really saves a lot of battery capacity.To lock the doors for traveling I reused the screw holes between the doors to mount a sliding lock.. You can find some of my details in THIS DOCUMENT (it is a pretty large PDF so it may take some time to download)

JC2 wrote:1. For now, I want to know if the wire from the rear of the receptacle can be rerouted so it receives power when the inverter is on.Yes

Replacing rv fridge with residential | Good Sam Community

18 Replies

jrnymn7
Explorer
Mar 01, 2015
Hi, John,

Does a residential fridge require pure sine wave, or will it be unaffected by a modified wave?
John___Angela
Explorer
Mar 01, 2015
jrnymn7 wrote:
Gdetrailer,

Wouldn't that fridge draw about 240w/2a? I realize there is a large load at start up, but wouldn't a 500w (continuous) inverter be sufficient, as opposed to 1200w? (I run a 700w microwave, with an 1100w+ draw, off a 1000w inverter)

It will actually draw about half of that but my experience with these installs is a 1000 watt sine wave inverter does a good job of handling the inrush current when the compressor starts.
jrnymn7
Explorer
Mar 01, 2015
Gdetrailer,

Wouldn't that fridge draw about 240w/2a? I realize there is a large load at start up, but wouldn't a 500w (continuous) inverter be sufficient, as opposed to 1200w? (I run a 700w microwave, with an 1100w+ draw, off a 1000w inverter)
time2roll
Nomad
Mar 01, 2015
JC2 wrote:
1. For now, I want to know if the wire from the rear of the receptacle can be rerouted so it receives power when the inverter is on.
Yes
Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Mar 01, 2015
JC2 wrote:
Recently, we made a decision to replace our Dometic NDR1062 rv fridge with a Haier 10.1cu, black in color. The less than optimal cooling performance, unreliability, and the possible potential for catching fire were some of the main reasons. It was checked to ensure that it was installed properly, cooling fans were installed and I even had the Amish coils installed in 2013. The straw that broke the camels back was when the Amish unit started leaking while we were about 150 miles from the IRV2 national rally last Sept. Fortunately, I carry a small dorm style fridge with us and was able to transfer stuff to it. We left the freezer closed and transferred its contents to another members fridge at the rally.

1. The receptacle plug in the outside fridge compartment is one of the few that does not receive power when the our 2000w inverter/charger is on. For now, I want to know if the wire from the rear of the receptacle can be rerouted so it receives power when the inverter is on.

2. For those that have replaced their rv fridges, (whether the big double doors or smaller single doors like the Haier), what type of trim did you use on the sides and across the top. Pics would be nice if you have them.

I am using a Haier 10 cu ft fridge in my TT, I closed off the outside access and top vent and left an inch on both sides and a couple of inches on the top of the fridge open. This allows air inside the trailer to move around the fridge.

You can use regular wood trim like you would use around a stick and bricks house to trim out door and windows to make a finished look.

For the inverter, forget about the existing plug in, instead just run a new run of wire to a new outlet from your inverter.

You could also buy a separate dedicated smaller inverter (1200W at a min) for the fridge. Smaller inverter will use a bit less battery.

I used a Tripplite PV1250 for mine, it is MSW but it is DESIGNED for use with high inductance motor loads like a fridge compressor. It also has a power save feature which turns off the inverter when no AC load is present. This feature really saves a lot of battery capacity.

To lock the doors for traveling I reused the screw holes between the doors to mount a sliding lock..

You can find some of my details in THIS DOCUMENT (it is a pretty large PDF so it may take some time to download)
jrnymn7
Explorer
Mar 01, 2015
JC2,

If you run a small inverter directly off the batteries, then plug the fridge into that, you can run the fridge without the larger inverter sucking up so much power.

Myself, anytime I'm away from the camper, or sleeping at night, the inverter is off. It's only on when absolutely necessary. Anything that needs to run continuously is wired directly to the batteries.
ScottG
Nomad
Mar 01, 2015
Norcold and Dometic are pushing us away from their industry and are too stupid to know it. They wont improve their technology and quality enough to even compete with the other choices we have.
It's only a matter of time before RV manufacturers start putting Small resi fridges in all their lines because their customers request it. It would be cheaper for them too.

Sorry - rant off.
2oldman
Explorer II
Mar 01, 2015
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Replacing rv fridge with residential

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