puttd wrote:
I'd say that if you are in the position to make the dealer take it back, do that. If you are in the position to make them actually fix it, do that.
I couldn't get them to take it back since we've done a lot of renovation on it. I could probably get them to REPAIR it, but I really doubt they would actually FIX it. In their minds it's two separate things. If it's something that I can fix myself then I'll know it's done right...
HappyKayakers wrote:
Here's a company in the Pacific northwest that should understand your problem. I've used the epoxy sealer and it does a great job. http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html
Thanks! I'll check them out.
geotex1 wrote:
When you talk about debris being drug in, I'm envisioning you're getting fragments of that OSB that is clearly water damaged and long-deteriorated underbelly fabric. I guess my issue is that you obviously are still getting water in there as evidenced on the, ummmm, "dealer repair." I'm a guy that likes to do a proper repair once over band-aiding it unless absolutely necessary. Big part of your problem on that corner is that the OSB has expanded it making it "fatter" than it was supposed to be to clear as it comes in...
I think you hit the nail on the head. In my OP, your tip about the flexible PVC shower lining was what I was thinking of. I couldn't remember what it was called. I'm going to do that tomorrow while it's still dry.
The debris coming in is what I want to clean up. It seems to me like the board needs to be completely dry to repair it properly (unless I just replace it, but I can't do that either in the rain). I'm finding out that it's pretty much impossible to truly dry something during winter in the Seattle area, so slapping a band-aid on it is the immediate goal.
I'll look into the other tips you suggested. It sounds like that is a good option.
Dr Quick wrote:
From the looks of your pictures, it looks like the leaks have been happening for some time due to discoloration...Also I would recommend that edge of new floor board be weather protected with some sort of Alum flashing. Also if leaks originate higher up, there could be wall damage too...
I have seen a Video on how to replace the floor in a slide, and it was quite a project, as it required bracing slide to the ground, so that wood floor panel could be replaced.
You're absolutely right. There is damage inside the wall. When you tap on it you can tell that the insulation is soft as compared to other sections of the slide out wall. The good news is that the flooring in that corner was not rotted or even soft, which makes me think the wall probably isn't either. On the other hand, there is mild rot where the slide out is dragging water in. I opened up some of the underbelly and looked underneath and it didn't look bad. This summer I think I'll replace the flooring on top of that section, but it doesn't look like the studs need to be replaced.
I saw the same video that you did (or one like it) about replacing the wood floor panel on the slide. To me it looked like a two-person operation, or one person with some good equipment to brace it.
When it comes to repair vs band-aid vs replace, this is a "learning" RV that my wife and I bought. We're going on the road full time and everything we read said to not buy an expensive rig when you're a beginner. We got this cheap and if we want to we can probably sell it next year for close to what we paid for it. That makes me hesitant to spend a lot of money on repairs. If we decide to keep it for a while then I'll invest in making good repairs. If we don't then we'll trade it in. (I doubt I'd sell it to a private seller with this damage...if I did then I'd fully disclose it).
Thanks to everyone for the tips. You guys came up with some great options. I'll do some more research and try one (or more) of them before the weather gets bad again.
