Reputable Solar Installers?

alliemac9 wrote:
But I can't remember the Arizona (?) one and am not sure if there are any others. I thought I remembered a couple who travels (part time?) and therefore offers mobile service as well?

Precision RV Service, Inc. - Marvin & Ellen Braun
Marvin is a Master Certified RV Tech and a Full-Time RVer who has been certified to install AM Solar systems. This Winter he is in Arizona and surrounding States. I think this is the couple you are thinking of. marv@precisionrv.com

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

There are also some folks here who tend to the less than bright side. The OP had his answers on the first 3 pages. So should the thread come to a halt just because in some one's opinion it is drifting off course? Or should the OP rejoice in extra information that may (or may not) be useful to him?

Just to keep to the original topic. He should DIY, if he can. If he can't he needs to know what he wants before he darkens the door of any installer. If he has acquired that knowledge, then any installation place that is willing to be directed by him, will likely be more than adequate, at about double the price of DIY.

If he doesn't want to bother learning that knowledge, then, he may well go to a reputable installer and get a less than perfect, but working system at about double to triple the price of DIY.

Now the thread can end, since *all* the bases have been covered.

bka0721 wrote:
There are very bright people here and they can come to their own conclusions. :B

Hi Don.

As I become guilty of my own accusation, going/continuing off topic, thank you Don. As you know personally, I am a person that was greatly rewarded by these brainstorming sessions. And advocate that this style continue. It is not my intention to be/become the arbiter of what is relevant or not, but to bring to the discussion; “Is what I am contributing, to the discussion, benefiting the discussion. Or, am I just talking to hear myself talk?”

Sometimes one stands too “close to the flame,” and does not even realize what is happening. So be it. One only needs to return to previous solar threads and see this happening, often. Step away, take a second look at what is being shared. Like you Don, I am a big DIY fan and practitioner and have gained often from these discussions and have implemented knowledge, fulltime. But, just as I lack an economy of words filter I would offer again; “Am I contributing to the discussion or am I the engineer driving this train into the ditch?”

End of thread, who is to say. What would be great would be the OP come back, at a future time, and report what eventually happened.

Not so much a Dodger fan, as a longtime Royals fan . . .but miss the baseball of past generations. :B

b

OP here...(I'm a girl, btw, but no worries :) ).

I appreciate all the info in this thread. I mostly appreciate feeling like there is a group of knowledgable people here I can bounce ideas off of. I know there is no "one size fits all" solution, although I would love if there were. I think the middle option outlined above (identify my components, but find an installer at 2x the price of DIY) is probably the best option for me. I don't want to spend more than I have to, but don't have time to install. I'm not even sure I have time to research the best components, which is why I was hoping to find an installer who inherently used what was reasonably considered current best technology.

I've read enough solar threads to know there's a lot to know, and that I don't know a lot.

I think I'm pretty much leaning toward a roof mount system and likely toward having tilting functionality. Rather just do it once. I'll stick with my current batteries until they croak, then will stick the biggest two AGM batteries under my step that I can. That would buy me added "capacity" due tot the ability to run them down to 80% discharge without ill effect instead of 50% like lead acid batteries (at least that's my current understanding).

I'm concerned that people honk the local installer may be behind the current technology, so I apparently still have research to do on components. Pending measurements of my roof, I'm hoping to put two large (140-160 watt) panels up there. The fridge is right next to the steps (where the batteries are) so 8'm assuming routing thru the fridge vent is going to be the ideal path. I like the shunt idea in order to provide a more accurate reading of the state of charge. I can't help it - I'm an engineer, and I like data.

So, thanks and keep your thoughts coming! (Sorry of any typos, am doing this from my phone and can only see a small portion of the response box.)

Do all the design, then have workers do what YOU say to do.

2oldman wrote:
Do all the design, then have workers do what YOU say to do.

X2

Hi,

The best technology is what they send into space. Unfortunately, just like having an LI battery pack, most of us can't afford it.

Unfortunately AGM batteries don't appear to tolerate discharge to 20% state of charge as well as was advertised.

Two group 29 agm will provide about 200 amp-hours. That is a relatively small bank so I'd go with 300 to 450 watts of panels.

If you want every erg of power buy an MPPT charge controller with a temperature probe. Do not buy a controller that doesn't allow adjustable set points--you will need to optimize charging for the AGM chemistry.

If you wish to save a bit of money then you can use a pwm controller, and bump up the wattage.

What ever controller you do buy needs to be rated for 125% of the wattage that will be coming "down the pipe". I.E for 450 watts the controller needs to be rated at 562 watts. The reason for this is cloud lensing effects.

In perfect solar conditions monocrystalline panels out perform poly. But in poor solar conditions poly appear to work better. Amorphous are slightly better, but are huge in size for the same wattage. For example, my Unisolar system does 256 watts. I can now get 1000 watts of Poly panels into the same physical space.

When I upgrade (by 1000 watts) I'll be using 250 watt poly panels with an MPPT controller. I may just start over and use 5 panels to get to 1250 watts.

The hard part is my existing system works perfectly for the original design which was for trips of up to 5 days...but I full time now--so it is inadequate to my needs.

alliemac9 wrote:
Rather just do it once. I'll stick with my current batteries until they croak, then will stick the biggest two AGM batteries under my step that I can. That would buy me added "capacity" due tot the ability to run them down to 80% discharge without ill effect instead of 50% like lead acid batteries (at least that's my current understanding).

You will kill AGMs with frequent discharge down to 20% SOC. 50% goes for them as well. Perhaps you are thinking of LifePo4 Lithium batteries?

pianotuna wrote:
I may just start over and use 5 panels to get to 1250 watts.

You could run an A/C with that without generator assist. Sweet!

FYI, there is not that much of a spread between the latest PV technology and ancient (five years previous). Not much that matters for the size and application of an RV system.

I use a single 235W polycrystaline module and a Morningstar MPPT-15 controller. If you can get by with that level of harvesting, the Morningstar has a PC interface so there is a big string of data available and any combination of charge setpoints or durations. It also has battery temp compensation. The included MSview software is kind of clunky, IMO, but is fairly full-featured. You can store historical data and graphs as well as real time.

As others have noted, don't plan on a discharge of 80% with AGM's. You will severely reduce the service life.

pianotuna wrote:
When I upgrade (by 1000 watts) I'll be using 250 watt poly panels with an MPPT controller. I may just start over and use 5 panels to get to 1250 watts.

That may be your best plan.

Just FYI, there is an outfit on the West Coast that makes a module that is somewhat transparent, i.e. lets light through the module surface. I'm sorry, can't remember the name. Their main application was for sun rooms and entry areas.

I thought of your situation with these being used over your existing Unisolar array. It may not work due to amount of light passing through and I would bet the pricing on them is astronomical.

I guess this is another "How about them Dodgers" post.:B