Resealing trailer

Outdoor RV replied:

The roof should be cleaned with mild soap and water. The roof sealant is DIcor self leveling sealant. After the roof is cleaned the Dicor just goes over the old sealant. The sides are sealed with Geocel/Proflex. I would use a citrus cleaner on a rag to clean then re seal.

So use different cleaners top and sides? That's strange. And do I dig out the old drying sealant on the sides or just go over the old like with Dicor?

I still need a good wax tip. It sounds like the Auto wax I use for my truck is not what's recommend for fiberglass?

EPDM is black on the inside. You can check by removing the trim piece around a roof vent on the inside. The roof material will be folded inside.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGLSiG88S5c

rvshrinker wrote:
Really helpful folks.

I have a 2018 Outdoors RV. Sounds like I should contact them and ask them what the roof (as well as sides) are made of, and what they recommend to clean and reseal?

I am very paranoid about water intrusion which is why I asked! I want this trailer to last at least ten years and I will hopefully have a metal shed up for it this summer, to minimize the UV damage.

Check with them but I am about 90% sure Outdoors RV still uses conventional EPDM roof membrane.

Really helpful folks.

I have a 2018 Outdoors RV. Sounds like I should contact them and ask them what the roof (as well as sides) are made of, and what they recommend to clean and reseal?

I am very paranoid about water intrusion which is why I asked! I want this trailer to last at least ten years and I will hopefully have a metal shed up for it this summer, to minimize the UV damage.

The tech told you wrong and was panning you to come back and spend some bucks every year.
I did this part time.
What he should have said was do a annual check up top for cracked or loose sealant. I've done mine twice a year...once in the spring before hitting the road and again in the fall when winterizing the trailer. As mentioned use only what your trailer roof material mfg recommends for sealing. Some rv newbs get carried away when adding a sealant/tape product. They apply pile more sealant or tape on top of existing piled up sealant creating a dam for water to sit. Over time and especially winter freeze and thaw it work the sealant/tape up creating the same process.
My '97 31' 5er in sig was 7 years before needing touch up on hairline cracks in a couple of spots along the rear cap/roof joint. I used Dicor per their instructions for that type application.
Around 9 years the sealant (no it wasn't Dicor) around the skylite came loose on the forward side. I pulled it off and added a bit of Dicor self leveling.
Long sealing story short much of the OEM sealant on my 22 year old trailer is still doing its job.
Eternabond ?? Its not permanent and you still need to go upside and check all the roof fixture/roof jacks themselves for problems.

A lot of rv folks use the term Dicor to describe the sealant on their trailers roof...when it isn't. The trailer mfg can supply you with the sealant brand info.
Be careful up there especially when moving from the ladder to the roof and when stepping off the roof to the ladder. Take it slow.

A lot of misinformation as usual in this thread. Before you go slapping on Dicor better determine what the roof is. Since 2013/2014 or so a lot of manufacturers use Alpha Systems Superflex roofing. Forest River uses it on just about everything, so do many others, Keystone, Winnebago, Grand Design. It's not EPDM, its a PVC material. Standard Dicor made for EPDM will seal the Superflex, but bubble and wrinkle it at the same time. The solvent in standard Dicor melts the Superflex PVC. You have to use the Alpha Total Protection branded sealant, or in a pinch a sealant made for a TPO roof. Dicor used to make a compatible sealant for TPO that would work with Alpha Superflex, but they discontinued it.

Using the correct product I would not scrape off any of the old if thin or cracked unless it was loose or really bad. Just clean it as well as possible using mineral spirits followed by alcohol, then float the new sealant over the old.

DICOR Self Leveling Lap Sealant

ETERNABOND

I only remove the loose caulk. If it is sticking well to the roof, just clean before applying the new caulk over the old.

I use lacquer thinner or acetone to clean the area before applying the new caulk. Apply it to a cloth and wipe down the area.

Definitely check your roof once a year, at least. Water intrusion is the big killer of RV's.

Most RV Roofs are sealed with DICOR.

They make it in a self leveling variety for roofs and horizontal application an a NON LEVELING variety for vertical application.

That said, ETERNABOND TAPE is also used as a nearly permanent solution and is what I will be using this spring once the temps get above 60 regularly.

Preventing water from getting in your camper is the single most important thing you can do to prolong it's usefulness. Most campers die and go to the junkyard or get traded in to a dealer for $500-$1000 once they have significant water damage.

Search YouTube for either of those and you will learn all you need to know about roof inspection and repair.

Owned my TT since new in 2002 and check the seals on the roof every year.

Sure, I've had to add some to the corners over the years, but only once so far and they all still look good.

No leaks and all still good for me anyway.

Good luck!

Mitch