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Hermes's avatar
Hermes
Explorer
May 28, 2015

Residential Fridge & Residential AC ??

We are planning to full time in a 5th wheel. In researching 5th wheels suitable for full time living, I notice some give the option of a residential fridge. If given the choice I think I would lean towards a auto refridge (elec/propane) Since I have no experience with a residential fridge in a trailer, my first question is, since they require electricity to operate, what do folks do when traveling as far as keeping food cold? For those who boondock at least on occasion, how much amperage do they typically draw?
With regards to residential AC, I get the idea they typically involve a heat pump, so how does this affect heating? Is heat still provided via propane? The AC would not be an issue for us as when boondocking we go to higher elevations when hot or stay at a campground that provides at least electric. Thanks.

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  • horizon36's avatar
    horizon36
    Explorer
    May 28, 2015
    We changed out our gas fridge for a residential unit last Fall and absolutely love it. We only have four 6 volt house batteries and don't have any trouble dry camping. I added a separate 600 watt PSW inverter just to run the new fridge, this way we can shut down our main inverter and still run the fridge. That cuts our power consumption quite a bit overnight. We do have 375 watts of solar and that helps a lot. We need the generator about 1-2 hours a day, depending on how much TV we watch at night.

    Go for the residential unit, add some batteries and at least 400 watts of solar or more if you don't want to run a generator.
  • pianotuna's avatar
    pianotuna
    Nomad III
    May 28, 2015
    Hi,

    Add some solar panels, in fact if you full time populate the entire roof with panels.

    Consider going to a 24 volt DC system with a DC to DC converter for the 12 volt side of the unit.

    The biggest hassle of a propane fridge is the need for the RV to be almost perfectly level. They are expensive to operate on the electric setting, which doesn't matter--unless you are in an RV park that meters the power.

    When the fridge finally fails, I will replace with a residential unit.
  • Hermes's avatar
    Hermes
    Explorer
    May 28, 2015
    Thank you for the input. Ron, by residential AC some manufacturers are using the term referring to cold air returns as opposed to the standard RV AC units which are noisy.
  • rr2254545's avatar
    rr2254545
    Explorer
    May 28, 2015
    Two necessary items - yes residential electric fridge and stacked washer and dryer
  • lanerd's avatar
    lanerd
    Explorer II
    May 28, 2015
    Residential fridge is much larger than the Nocold or Domentic 4-door fridges. But as mentioned, they do require multiple batteries and an inverter. Their amperage requirement is not much, but more than the other type.

    Residential AC???? I have never seen an rv (except those that are permanently situated at a trailer park) that is equipped with one. I think you are talking about the normal rv AC units that are located on top. Some have heat pumps, some don't. In any case, they are in addition to the normal RV furnace unit...so you have both. The heat pumps work strictly off of 110vac.....not good for boon docking. Of course, the 12vdc fans on the furnace will suck the battery(s) dry pretty quickly.

    Hope this helps

    Ron
  • donn0128's avatar
    donn0128
    Explorer II
    May 28, 2015
    Reaidential refers are becoming very popular. The package includes more batteries and an inverter to power it on the road. If you never remote camp without hookups then it is a good option.
    As for heat pumps? They are nothing more than an air conditioning unit that can be reversed. They do OK in areas where year round temps are mild. Once below about 40 degrees heat pumps become worthless. Thus even those with a HP will have a back up furnace. Personally after living for 10 years with a HP, I would never consider one again.

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