Roof J-box for solar - what splicer?
Need some education. Getting all the pieces. Have a 4*2" waterproof PVC combiner box, will run AWG 12 from panels in box, and AWG 8 out to controller. Will use mechanical splicers, for lack of experie...
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SCVJeff - I saw that box by AM solar, $80 seems to much, Home Depot box with added buses will cost $20 together with JBweld and nylon screws.
This doesn't worry me, I will only have 2 wires on each terminal. It's a series of 2 panels, the box is only to transition from AWG 12 to AWG 8 before running it inside the trailer. Main problem I see with splicer-reducer is that wires at the ends are in a tight spot, 1.25" between the J-box wall and the butt end of splicer, difficult to work.
It just had crossed my mind - I could transition from AWG 12 to AWG 8 in the cabinet right after the wire goes through the fridge vent. Still would need some J-box though. AND... you know how little kitchen cabinet space is in a travel trailer. Nah, will better keep this mess on the roof.
smkettner wrote:
I would not use the splice-reducer because you would need to stack wires under the screws.
Better to have a separate clamp on each wire.
This doesn't worry me, I will only have 2 wires on each terminal. It's a series of 2 panels, the box is only to transition from AWG 12 to AWG 8 before running it inside the trailer. Main problem I see with splicer-reducer is that wires at the ends are in a tight spot, 1.25" between the J-box wall and the butt end of splicer, difficult to work.
It just had crossed my mind - I could transition from AWG 12 to AWG 8 in the cabinet right after the wire goes through the fridge vent. Still would need some J-box though. AND... you know how little kitchen cabinet space is in a travel trailer. Nah, will better keep this mess on the roof.
