Roof membrane , different replacement!

wilber1 wrote:
Wha’s The matter with rubber and why are you changing the roof on a five year old unit?

It leaks. I've had 2 different people work on it and it is trash! It leaks around the front A/C, nothing inside yet but the screws on the light fixtures are rusty. The roof appears to be sagging around the unit and the wood is soft on the left side. I've taped it about 3 times and the flange around the A/C keeps cutting the membrane. I think it's puffing up from air tumbling while it's getting towed. The stuff has wrinkles sometimes and sometimes it doesn't.

It’s important to me to be able to walk on the roof. I might go up with s broom to sweep off debris before retracting the slides (which also have rubber roofs BTW) or to check any number of things. I wonder how well a metal or fiberglass roof would mix with some morning dew. I might come down sooner then planned. :(

The fiberglass material on RVs is called Filon. You'll need to remove everything that penetrates the roof and work it like Tyvek on siding. It gets glued down and rolled out. After it adheres, go around with a laminate trimming router and cut out the openings.

I replaced my 5 year old failed membrane rubber roof with This 2 years ago. If you search for my posts in early 2016 you should find lots of info.

I will never ever have another rubber roof longer than it takes to have it sprayed. And don't believe the 10-12 rubber roof warranty. I was offered $225.00 total compensation under my "warranty".

PM me for more details, but look at my posts first. 2 years later I'm sitting here right now under hard rain and not a single caulking joint or the rubber to leak.

There are manufacturers who provide metal and fiberglass roofs.

As an after market, "the old rubber roof is shot" solution....With maintenance, the original roofs last 15-20yrs. By that point a replacement roof is more than the RV is worth, so it doesn't make financial sense.

PS: Define fiberglass like a boat? A cruising boat with a thin hull will be 1/4" thick. A heavily built hull can be an 1" or more thick. Even 1/4" on a 30' trailer will add upwards of 800lbs at the very highest point of the trailer. Not a good thing. The fiberglass roofs, I've see, are usually much thinner but then it takes a bit of design to avoid stress points or fiberglass will constantly be cracking.

There was some company, a franchise no doubt, that did a "permanent roof" with something. Probably akin to bedliner spray, but I honestly don't remember.

Bumpyroad wrote:
use Rhino lining, et.al.
bumpy

myself and several others have put rhino/linex etc. over plywood decking in toyhaulers and cargo trailers. We all have mixed feeling on it. Unlike in a truck bed, adhesion is not a strong point. while it's almost impossible to get these off a scuffed up metal base, over plywood adhesion is marginal. if it starts to come loose at an edge it is not hard at all to pull it off by hand. Thats after the installers claimed they have specific directions from rhino/linex etc. on how to install over plywood and it will stick as well as a truck bed.

yes it makes a good floor coating, easy to clean, great for toyhaulers, etc. but we all have to be careful about adhesion issues.

In all the cases it seemed to adhere real well for a few years, then after temp cycling, vibration etc. lifting at the corners

Wha’s The matter with rubber and why are you changing the roof on a five year old unit?

use Rhino lining, et.al.
bumpy

I would think a metal roof could be pretty noisy in a heavy rain storm compared to a rubber roof.