Rooftop AC Unit Replacement
Well we have thrown in the towel on our old Coleman Mach unit. After reading a few articles it would appear that replacing the unit will not be all the difficult. From what I understand it basically...
Forum Discussion
I can only answer part of this.
A motor costs $100 on Amazon and isn't that hard to change. The blower wheel cleaning I did, was part of a motor replacement job. I can usually salvage a motor if it's a bearing problem, but I could not keep our old one running. It'd run free then stick. That was after dismantling, cleaning, crocus-clothing, lubricating and ... and ... I still have the old motor and all it needs is a new set of sleeve bearings with new wicking to keep the oil around them.
A 15000 does noticeably more than a 13500. Problem is, it takes a 30-amp coach right to the limits of its 30-amp pedestal service. When we had a 13500, we could run our 24-ft C in "total electric" mode. We could cool air, heat water, make coffee, even microwave, with the converter running. With the current 31, we heat water with LPG, only use one plug-in appliance (toaster, coffee maker) at a time, none with the microwave, and sometimes the main breaker will trip if we microwave with the A/C running.
I like to salvage things, restore to running condition, but I believe that if an RV A/C has a refrigerant leak OR needs a compressor, it's time to replace. I was shopping and reading reviews awhile ago, and to me, the "Coleman" (RV Products) is still the best bet.
Both of our Mach units have been non-ducted with no wall thermostat. As such they had very few "controls", just On/Off/Fan Speed Knob, and Analog Thermostat Knob. So I can't help with the control aspect. Fortunately we have some very good techs who can help you with that. I believe the Coleman website has info about replacing an older Coleman with a new one.
A motor costs $100 on Amazon and isn't that hard to change. The blower wheel cleaning I did, was part of a motor replacement job. I can usually salvage a motor if it's a bearing problem, but I could not keep our old one running. It'd run free then stick. That was after dismantling, cleaning, crocus-clothing, lubricating and ... and ... I still have the old motor and all it needs is a new set of sleeve bearings with new wicking to keep the oil around them.
A 15000 does noticeably more than a 13500. Problem is, it takes a 30-amp coach right to the limits of its 30-amp pedestal service. When we had a 13500, we could run our 24-ft C in "total electric" mode. We could cool air, heat water, make coffee, even microwave, with the converter running. With the current 31, we heat water with LPG, only use one plug-in appliance (toaster, coffee maker) at a time, none with the microwave, and sometimes the main breaker will trip if we microwave with the A/C running.
I like to salvage things, restore to running condition, but I believe that if an RV A/C has a refrigerant leak OR needs a compressor, it's time to replace. I was shopping and reading reviews awhile ago, and to me, the "Coleman" (RV Products) is still the best bet.
Both of our Mach units have been non-ducted with no wall thermostat. As such they had very few "controls", just On/Off/Fan Speed Knob, and Analog Thermostat Knob. So I can't help with the control aspect. Fortunately we have some very good techs who can help you with that. I believe the Coleman website has info about replacing an older Coleman with a new one.
