Routing Solar Wires Through Fridge Vent
Hi all! I am thinking about installing a solar system on my 2012 Jayco X19H. Have been reading a lot in the last few days, and I think that I would like to run the wiring through the Fridge Vent. ...
Forum Discussion
Put the controller closer to the battery. Typically solar panels will put out 18volts and the controller will drop that down to the 13 volt range. Higher voltage travels easier than lower voltage, so run the 18 volt solar power as far as possible before dropping the voltage down. Really, though, this is splitting hairs….
I would not worry about a few feet extra that the wires run from solar to battery. This is not a lot of amps, and as long as you have sufficient wattage then it wont matter. I have 200 watts feeding two batteries and always am at full strength pretty early in the morning after sunrise.
No worries on multiple DC power sources. They will play well together.
The batteries will charge off the highest power source, and the batteries act like a big sponge for all these other power sources and/or spikes in power. Actually, you want the batteries always connected when the solar panel is connected to help protect the panels from any spikes or higher voltages that might occur somehow. This is because the battery will absorb all the fluctuations of power in the system.
Disconnect the solar before disconnecting the batteries.
I have batteries in the truck, not the truck camper, so I keep an exit sign battery connected to the solar array/DC electrical system at all times just for panel protection. This is how seriously I take it. A trailer will have batteries in the trailer, so no need for my excess.
A switch? Yes, good idea to be able to switch off the solar for above reasons.
Fuses or circuit breakers from vehicle DC to battery is good also.
With my solar, 200 watts, I rarely ever need to run truck power to the batteries unless it rains or is in winter or lots of cloudy days. I let the solar do it all, and the solar with the MPPT controller is a better charging system than an alternator.
Unless you put in a switch you will have alternator power all the time while TV is running. Put in a switch, you do not need alternator power with solar. I used a relay, same kind under your hood, and a toggle switch to control if power is connected to TV or not, but you could use a big switch to just cut the voltage in-line.
I pulled the DC power off of the truck starter, not the battery. The starter is only used for starting so that big heavy gauge wire running from battery to the starter can be used for other things while driving. Starter is already 5 feet closer to the trailer also, caution, that wire is live! Also, use a circuit breaker as close to the alternator (starter motor in my case) as u can. Use heavy gauge wire to connect to the trailer as it will be a long run, and the longer the run the larger the wire needs to be. I also use a separate 2-pin plug as the 7-pin trailer plug wiring is not sufficient IMO.
Ideally have a DC to DC controller between battery and alternator, but in reality, since u have solar, do not bother.
I would not worry about a few feet extra that the wires run from solar to battery. This is not a lot of amps, and as long as you have sufficient wattage then it wont matter. I have 200 watts feeding two batteries and always am at full strength pretty early in the morning after sunrise.
No worries on multiple DC power sources. They will play well together.
The batteries will charge off the highest power source, and the batteries act like a big sponge for all these other power sources and/or spikes in power. Actually, you want the batteries always connected when the solar panel is connected to help protect the panels from any spikes or higher voltages that might occur somehow. This is because the battery will absorb all the fluctuations of power in the system.
Disconnect the solar before disconnecting the batteries.
I have batteries in the truck, not the truck camper, so I keep an exit sign battery connected to the solar array/DC electrical system at all times just for panel protection. This is how seriously I take it. A trailer will have batteries in the trailer, so no need for my excess.
A switch? Yes, good idea to be able to switch off the solar for above reasons.
Fuses or circuit breakers from vehicle DC to battery is good also.
With my solar, 200 watts, I rarely ever need to run truck power to the batteries unless it rains or is in winter or lots of cloudy days. I let the solar do it all, and the solar with the MPPT controller is a better charging system than an alternator.
Unless you put in a switch you will have alternator power all the time while TV is running. Put in a switch, you do not need alternator power with solar. I used a relay, same kind under your hood, and a toggle switch to control if power is connected to TV or not, but you could use a big switch to just cut the voltage in-line.
I pulled the DC power off of the truck starter, not the battery. The starter is only used for starting so that big heavy gauge wire running from battery to the starter can be used for other things while driving. Starter is already 5 feet closer to the trailer also, caution, that wire is live! Also, use a circuit breaker as close to the alternator (starter motor in my case) as u can. Use heavy gauge wire to connect to the trailer as it will be a long run, and the longer the run the larger the wire needs to be. I also use a separate 2-pin plug as the 7-pin trailer plug wiring is not sufficient IMO.
Ideally have a DC to DC controller between battery and alternator, but in reality, since u have solar, do not bother.
