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DinTulsa's avatar
DinTulsa
Explorer
Jun 27, 2017

Running a 30 amp rv plug for the house?

I've decided to have an electrician wire up a 30 amp 110 rv plug for the house. I'm tired of loading and unloading in a 125degree rv. I have looked at different options and I wanted to get some opinions. The plug would be on the exterior of the house so I really don't want a big grey box just hanging on the side of the house. My thought was to run wire from my panel to the eave of the house, cut a hole and put in a 30amp 3 prong twist lock recept, that way it's under the eave out of sight and out of mind. I would then build an extension cord with a female 3amp plug for the rv and a male 3 prong twist to attach to the house.

Has anyone attempted this? Or would it be better to just run the traditional 30 amp plug and call it a day?
  • DinTulsa wrote:
    It's a little more complicated for sure. I'll probably just run a regular rv drop.

    I'm going to need a 50ft extension cord to reach the outlet either way. I have to park the rv in the street and my 50 amp cord is short.


    Earlier you said 30 amp - which is it, 30 amp or 50 amp? :h
  • And then after you strongly voice your concern that is be 120 and the electrician does his job, VERIFY the voltage with a meter. If you don't have one, get one!
  • Ron3rd's avatar
    Ron3rd
    Explorer III
    I did my own, not too difficult. Easy job for a pro.

    JUST MAKE SURE YOUR ELECTRICIAN UNDERSTANDS IT IS 30 AMP 120 VOLT, WIRED EXACTLY LIKE THE OUTLETS INSIDE YOUR HOUSE; ONE HOT, ONE NEUTRAL, ONE GROUND. IT IS NOT 220 VOLT!!!!!!!

    Can't tell you how many times I have read on this forum that professional electricians look at the 30 amp receptacle and wire it for 220 volts!! That recently happened to a friend of mine BTW, trailer filled with smoke when he plugged in. You guessed it; it was wired for 220 volt!!!
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    That 50-ft extension is for 240 volts. The biggest thing to remember when installing a 30 amp receptacle is to make sure whoever wires it, sets it up as 120 VOLTS. In most breaker boxes, a single breaker will mean 120. Electricians look at that massive 30 Amp 120 Vold receptacle (even though it says RV, 120 volt, etc. on it) and wire it as 240 using a duplex breaker. Supplies 240 to the RV and that's very bad for the RV's 120 systems and appliances.
  • DinTulsa wrote:
    It's a little more complicated for sure. I'll probably just run a regular rv drop.

    I'm going to need a 50ft extension cord to reach the outlet either way. I have to park the rv in the street and my 50 amp cord is short.


    https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-Welder-Extension-25-Foot/dp/B002IZ99G6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498589843&sr=8-1&keywords=8%2F3+Heavy+Duty+Welder+Extension+Cord%2C++50ft
  • A 30A RV outlet by itself isn't that large. 4.8" x 5.4" x6.1". A little spray paint and it will match the house color.

    Amazon Clicky

    Probably the majority of the cost will be the electrician's time - you might consider putting in a 50A outlet (if the house will handle it) in case you move up to a larger RV or for resale purposes on the house.

    When I put mine in, I put in a standard RV park box with a 50A, 30A and two 20A outlets - but it wasn't on the front of the house. Also ran heavier wire at very minimal cost so both the 50A and 30A could be used at the same time. Guests do drop in.......

    Bill
  • It's a little more complicated for sure. I'll probably just run a regular rv drop.

    I'm going to need a 50ft extension cord to reach the outlet either way. I have to park the rv in the street and my 50 amp cord is short.
  • DinTulsa wrote:
    I've decided to have an electrician wire up a 30 amp 110 rv plug for the house.


    Hopefully he knows what he's doing. :W

    Your plan sounds more complicated than it needs to be - I'd just install a 30 amp 120 vac RV drop on the side of the house, use the trailer's stock 30 amp cable to plug into it, thereby avoiding the use of any adapters which are just additional fail points.

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